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Day Canyon Cragging Routes
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Brush Painted Datsun 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kyle Copeland?
Page Views: 4,918
Submitted By: JFA on Oct 19, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Rich on one of the finest cracks in the Moab area....


This curving flake, just to the right of Christine's, features excellent jamming on quality rock. One of the best in Day Canyon.


Set of cams with extra hand sized pieces.

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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 16, 2004

Really fun pitch! Crux was a thriller.
By Ryan Deppen
Dec 7, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

INcredible Route!!! I thought it was fairly sustained and the end pinches down when it gets overhanging. I thought the crux was going to the chains, kind of funky jamming. Well worth the hike into the beautiful day canyon. 3 stars for sure.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 31, 2008

A single 60m rope just works for the descent (don't worry about what the book says).
By Robes
From: Leavenworth, Washington
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Genius! Sting in the tail.
By Hockman
Sep 17, 2014

Anyone know anything about a second pitch?
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 19, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Amazing route. Worth the hike, especially when combined with Saab next door.

I placed a #0.5 camalot to get up to the ledge. Plus a #3 as a directional for my second on the way down.

The thing will take as many #2 camalots as you can carry. I was happy to have a new BD #4 in the lower pod 10' up the main crack, though it isn't necessary. And then some #1 camalots for the start and finish. Book says #0.75, but I didn't place any. You can get a #3 camalot in a few places as well, but it is pretty much #2s for most of the length.

Felt a bit harder than Incredible Handcrack. Way more sustained, but nothing as pumpy as the overhang on IH.
By Nathan Bell
From: La Grande, Oregon
Nov 9, 2014

Way fun, do it! The detached flake block in the crack at the start gets solid when you jam. What a great time.
By mike h
From: Denver, CO
Dec 2, 2014

So much fun.

For the approach, stay in the wash until it becomes slickrock and bouldery, then get on the right/north bench where there's an old road to walk. Take this past the towers and Brush Painted to where the road fades and drops down, then cross the creekbed and go back up left to the climb.

My rack for next time (C4's): #0.5, #0.75, 2x#1, 5-6x#2, #3, #4. You could add/sub some #3 friends, but don't count on many #3 C4 placements.
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