|Lotta Balls Wall
This is an excellent route. Some of the easier climbing is a bit runout, but the hard stuff is reasonably protected. Apparently, "bruja" is Spanish for witch (for those of you without your foreign language dictionaries...)
The climb starts immediately right of Lotta Balls, where a small left-facing corner leads up to a roof.
Pitch 1: Climb up to the roof, traverse right, pass a protection bolt, then climb up and right on easier face-climbing to a bolted belay position. The stance is right on top of a tiny, white, left-facing corner.
Pitch 2: Continue straight up via moderate face-climbing. Set up a belay on gear 30 or 40 feet below the giant overhang. Protection on this pitch is limited.
Pitch 3: Climb up to the overhang near its right end. Follow an improbable ramp a long way to the left (5.6) over soft and fragile rock. When the climbing becomes easy, go straight up to a belay at a small bush.
Pitch 4: Easy climbing goes up a low-angle crack to the top.
Descend left with a couple of short rappels.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 29, 2006
The first pitch on this route is beautiful. After the face climbing near the first bolt, angle up and right to the varnished wall around the corner. There will be a bolt below a great thin crack in a black varnished wall.
Be careful not to place gear under the roof or you will have bad rope drag. I would suggest back cleaning the gear after placing a blue alien at the end of the roof traverse.
|By john durr|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Oct 23, 2007
A doubly corrupted Swainish (spanglish) name with the english possessive apostrophy-s form on a spanish word followed by an english word, hehe. "Caldo de la Bruja"
The route description above has the first pitch ending at Lota Balls first belay which is a great way to do Lota Balls as well, better to find the second bolt out right and do the second very nice crux as mentioned in Guy's comment post.
The first pitch is muy excelente with bomber pro and great climbing. The rest of the route is good too if significantly easier. Additional long slings handy.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 1, 2008
Nice route, first pitch can easily be TR'd using the Lotta Balls anchor.
Although it takes excellent pro, the placement of low pro below the roof move (to avoid drag) would provide for a pretty scary fall should you peel out and clang into the corner.
|By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?|
Sep 5, 2012
Felt the crux of P-2 was a bit spicy- stepping on small balls, thoughtful pro, and delicate climbing up a thin seam- 5.6??? Really??? Rock was solid at least, and it was pretty fun, and eased up nicely after the crux.
Edit to add: Pitch 4 is mostly 4th class to easy low 5th class, but fun! I only placed a couple of pieces just to keep the rope out of the crack. Only took about 5-7 minutes to top out on this pitch- a very stress free pitch.
|By Tom Fralich|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 26, 2013
I also found P2 to be somewhat spicy. I traversed to the Black Magic anchor at the end of the pitch...seemed like a better stance and let the rope run more smoothly on the traverse of P3. P1 is excellent and worth doing on its own (double-rope rap from bolts).
Apr 1, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I though this route was easily as good as Lotta Balls and Black Magic. Great variety on the first pitch (don't miss the bolt around the corner once the Lotta Balls anchor is in sight), spicy second pitch, WILD but easy 3rd pitch, and fun easy corner to finish. Overall a great route with some spicy easier climbing but good pro for the hard parts.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I think this route is better than Lotta Balls with 1/10 the traffic. A great option when the other two popular routes are busy. Do not belay at Lotta Balls first belay if you want to stay on an independent line and do the whole route - just continue up right of that line to the great two bolt belay on a ledge a bit farther up. From there climb straight up the fantastic varnished face and either make your own belay or better yet clip into the Black Magic belay. Next go straight over the bulge, traverse HALF way under the big roof and climb directly over the roof at the obvious crack (5.8 or 5.9 - easier than the first pitch moves), clip the bolt at the lip and then move up and right to a great belay in an alcove with a bush.