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 ADVANCED
The Mace
Select Route:
Blood,Sweat, and Fears T 
Bruce Carson Memorial Route T 
Original Route T 
Rappel Route TR 
Real Rappel Route T 
Webster/ Becker Variation T 
Wind, Sand, and Stars  T 

Bruce Carson Memorial Route 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tim Coats, Bobbi Bensman 1983
Page Views: 552
Submitted By: Larry Coats on Sep 30, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Bruce Carson Memorial Route topo.

Description 

The Bruce Carson Memorial Route was named in honor of the clean-climbing legend who was the first to attempt the line in 1973. Carson died in the Indian Himalaya after falling through a cornice on September 4, 1975, at only 24 years of age. The route climbs the back side of the same crack system that forms the Original Route, and joins that route on its 4th pitch.

Pitch 1: Traverse the Fort Apache limestone from the notch. A tricky step across a missing portion of the ledge (5.9) leads the belay at the base of the corner.

Pitch 2: Climb the left-facing corner, passing a smooth bulge that was Carsonís high point in the 70ís (5.10). Continue above to a belay in a recess.

Pitch 3: Follow wide cracks and chimneys (5.9) to join the 4th pitch chimney of the Original Route. Follow that route to the summit of the second tower.

Protection 

Standard Sedona rack.


Photos of Bruce Carson Memorial Route Slideshow Add Photo
Stopper from Carson's bail anchor on the second pitch of the Bruce Carson Memorial Route.
Stopper from Carson's bail anchor on the second pi...
A Clean Grade Six- article by Bruce Carson in Mountain 33.
A Clean Grade Six- article by Bruce Carson in Moun...

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