BETA PHOTO: The Brownstone Wall from the approach
|Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>|
This east-facing brown wall sits at the upper end of Juniper Canyon. It's a bit of a grunt to hike in to but contains some excellent routes. A scrambling descent from the top is the V-shaped gully on the left (south) side of the wall, called the Gunsight. This gully separates the Brownstone Wall from the Rainbow Wall.
Follow the standard approach into Juniper Canyon, passing Rose Tower and Jackrabbit Buttress on your right. You should find a decent trail which heads up the drainage, the same approach as for the Rainbow Wall. Where you would turn left for the Rainbow Wall (and where the main drainage jogs left and you can see the Brownstone Wall directly above of you but still 500' higher), leave the main drainage and head right up a talus slope and then a long section of slickrock up a bowl to the base of the Brownstone Wall. It is also possible to stay in the main drainage longer (especially for Black Dagger which is the far left side of the Brownstone Wall) but this involves more bushwhacking. Total approach time is 1.5-2 hours.
Weather station 3.3 miles from here
21 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Brownstone Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Brownstone Wall:
Black Dagger 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PG13 Trad, 6 pitches, 800'
Sweet Thin 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 730'
Armatron 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Pro Choice 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Time's Up 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 6 pitches, 500'
Featured Route For Brownstone Wall
Armatron 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a NV
: Red Rock
: ... : Brownstone Wall
Armatron is excellent. Pitch three will become a red rocks super-classic when the word gets out. The others are merely fun climbing on good rock.P1: Mosey up and left past 5 bolts before traversing left on plates to a belay station in the scoop visible from the ground (below a crack). ~95', 5.8ish.P2: Climb the finger crack up and step right to the second crack when convenient (25 or 30'). Go up this crack until the angle slacks off into a sandy slab to the bottom of a large left-facing corner. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
Local Information for Brownstone Wall
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Melissa Wanserski
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 11, 2015
Some rappelling info on Brownstone North wall:
(Couldn't find this info anywhere else, so I'm posting)
For reference, see Handren guide or this great Beta Photo
My partner and I climbed the 1st 2 pitches on Mayday Malefactor on 1/8/15 and bailed. My 70m rope has a few extra feet, but would not have reached to rap this route, so:
From the top of pitch 2 of Mayday Malefactor, we rappelled climbers right to the anchor at the top of pitch 2 of Sweet Thin, in the bottom of the large left-facing corner (first green dot in the photo). *Not recommended* as this was at the VERY end of my 70m rope, and my 100# partner could not reach without me reigning her in.
From this anchor at the top of pitch 2 of Sweet Thin (in the left-facing corner), a 70m rope will make 2 single-rope rappels to the ground