Brown Flake 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Greg Lowe, 1965 |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on Jun 4, 2003 |
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JAG on-sights The Brown Flake
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Description This route begins just to the left of Strategic Defense 5.11c. The opening moves follow a left facing dihedral and are tough to stop and place gear.
A rest is had before a 1 inch crack, follow this crack and traverse to the left. Work out some thin gear in the cracks and setup for the traverse back to the right.
This is where the fun begins. Lieback the flake, and work hard to protect yourself. The gear can be good, but it is pumpy to place. Race to the ledge before your hands open up on their own. Traverse to the right and rap on the S.D. anchors.
Protection TCU's, lowe balls, medium cams, and nuts
By Dougald MacDonald
Aug 29, 2006
| An experienced City climber suggested this route was more like 5.11a before we did it, and I wouldn't argue. With bolts it would be a cruise, but placing the pro requires an ever-evolving battle between the rising pump and the desire for security. Many will need to punch it to reach the jugs near the top, and then they'll wish those jugs were bigger. Great stuff! |
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Sep 18, 2010
| Lead this on the morning of 9/12/2010...day 4 of a vicious 7-day C-Diff infection....and handn't eaten a bite for 18+ hrs. IMO, this is a tougher on-sight than Crack-Of-Doom...and a lot more rewarding as a climb. More-varied, both gymnastically and in gear placements. I was pumped out of my mind at the tope the flake. I rarely emote on routes, but this time I did! |
By Ben Folsom
Sep 20, 2010
| Jeffrey, I saw you do this when you were feeling really sick. Nice work. I hope you guys had a good rest of your trip.
Really good route, and for sure pumpy. Funny how Fall Line is .10c and this gets .10d, and Brown Flake feels a whole # grade harder. |
By Kevin Volkening
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| Great pitch and a must do! Watch rope drag, use extendable runners on most of your pieces before you get to the brown flake. |
By camhead
Aug 22, 2011
| Fun route, I can't believe I waited so long to get on it. In my opinion, it's not so bad, and feels right on at 10+ (certainly easier than Tiny Town or Scar Tissue). Takes more nuts than cams. The nearest anchors are for Skyline, so on a busy weekend you'll have to make a gear anchor. |
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