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In between the main buttresses is a steep slab with a large roof above. This climb is the left-most climb up the slab. Climb up the slab to a set of anchors (5.11d). Set up for the roof and go for it. I have not done the second pitch. The first pitch is a worthwhile outing itself.
This is to the left of Tusk.
Jul 27, 2012
I'm pretty sure you can get down off the top pitch with a 60m, so probably the full route (P1 + P2) is closer to 100 feet. It helps to have some long slings out and around the roof area for drag and keeping your rope off a sharp lip. I remember a fair bit of power-funk getting up and over the lip, then some scooging along an offset seam--V6 or 5.12+ range for the total sequence. The route was originally done as one pitch, then the midway anchors were added later.
FA: early September, 2009.
|By J. Albers|
Oct 9, 2012
Fun route, with delicate, open-hand side-pull climbing in the lower crux. I think that calling the lower crux 5.11 is a bit of a sandbag (I think it's probably solid at 12a...especially compared to other 12a's at DH).