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Brothers in Arms 
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Maelstrom, The 
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Brothers in Arms 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Stone, Briggs, Chace mid 80s
Page Views: 2,411
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Jan 1, 2001
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Cody Scarpella onsighting Brothers in Arms.
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Description 

Aptly named, and one of the best and most challenging finger cracks in the Front Range. BIA takes the R-diagonal splitter just right of The Maelstrom (see that route for approach description).

The initial 20 feet is a very strenuous, technical set of moves, and requires a lot of work fishing in the gear. Hope that there is at least one fixed wire. After that, the climbing only gets harder and harder- sustained, technical finger jamming with marginal feet which goes on and on, until turning the corner and easing near the top. This climb should be on the South Platte fingercrack hardman/woman's tour, right up there with the Bishop and Sphinx cracks. Originally done as a siege effort, it was onsighted by Alan Lester in the early 90s.


Protection 

Wired nuts to 2" cams, with as many TCUs as you can scrounge up, mostly yellow Metolius (approx. 0.5 to 0.75") and several 1" also. Advil, tape, and "Crazy Glue" for the cuticle ripping you will receive.



Photos of Brothers in Arms Slideshow Add Photo
Things are about to ease up a little....
Things are about to ease up a little....
The strenuous entry moves.
The strenuous entry moves.
Brad Gobright flashing Brothers in Arms.
Brad Gobright flashing Brothers in Arms.
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