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 ADVANCED
Two Pines Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Deal T,TR 
Brother Without a Brain TR 
Crosstown Traffic T 
Dyspepsia T,TR 
Full Stop T,TR 
Grotto, The T,TR 
Hypoglycemia T,TR 
Jolly Gendarme T,TR 
L. S. D. T,TR 
Moderation T,TR 
Mouse Tracks T 
Mouse's Misery T,TR 
Mouse's Tail T,TR 
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 
Rack, The T,TR 
Reprieve TR 
Schizophrenia T,TR 
Solar Eclipse T,TR 
Thoroughfare T 
Touch & Go T,TR 
Vacillation T,TR 

Brother Without a Brain 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: DLFA
Page Views: 272
Submitted By: Tradoholic on May 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Go up the rope line using good holds on the right ...

Description 

Climb overhang and corner. Block on the left is off. interesting boulder problem to easy face.

Location 

Left of Schizophrenia. Starts with the 5.4 route "Moderation," then instead of going up easy terrain on the right it heads straight up the face and overhanging corner.

Protection 

TR, not much for a lead.


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By Tony Brengosz
Sep 27, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

How close does this stay to the corner? I moved left through the overhang, and then slowly trended back towards the corner for the rest of the route.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 28, 2012

I totally agree. Everytime I climb this I start on the corner on the right but move left across the steep starting face then back right to the corner (sort of) after getting established above the initial overhang.
By Erol Altay
Jun 23, 2013

Photo and description are correct. I make staying right of the the rope line on small holds thru the shallow left facing ramp to be 11d.