|The Right Wall
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Though this is a link up, I wanted to add it as a separate pitch so people would know its here. As described below this route makes for the easiest 5.10 climbing on the Right Wall, as well as delivering very consistent climbing at that grade. The line is riddled with positive holds, and It also avoids the rather awkward crux of BFAM which is now suffering from some deteriorating holds at the top of it's crux.
Climb BFAM to the break at 2/3 height just below the small dihedral. Do not clip the bolt in the mini dihedral to your right, but instead move just left on large holds and a very good #0 TCU in a horizontal gas pocket. You can place a couple TCUs here as it is a little ways and a .9+ move to some jugs before your next good gear. Continue moving up the shallow dihedral of Soldier Of Fortune passing good gear (#2) below the final .10- crux which guards the anchor.. Shares anchor with Soldier Of Fortune.
Starts on BFAM, finishes at the Soldier Of Fortune anchor.
Bolts on the first 2/3, then a selection of small TCUs from #00 up, a couple hand sized pieces, and medium wires will all fit...
Brother of Fortune moves one more up from where I ...
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 18, 2013
thanks for the heads up, this is a great warm-up option (honestly, for some of us, it's a main event).... don't read this if you aren't looking for gear beta: after clipping the last bolt JJ describes above, you can get a blue metolious in a horizontal out left (if for some idiotic reason like me you forgot your purple metolious), then a .75 in a bit of a flare (maybe this is where the #1 works better?) and then a bomber .4 above this. definitely bring 3-4 long runners.
|By JJ Schlick|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 1, 2013
Finally got around to equipping Soldier of Fortune with its own anchor, which this link up now shares instead of climbing all the way to the Smiling Jay ledge. Hard to miss it, and its a clean rope run.