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The Right Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Wonderful Life 
American Caesar 
Aquarius Rising 
Barbarian Rising 
Brother From Another Mother AKA B-FAM 
Brother Of Fortune 
Consensual Hex 
Crescent Moon 
Donald Duckin It 
Dr. Octagon 
Flavor of the Day 
Full Steam Ahead 
Harder They Come, The 
Helicopter Exodus 
Kindness 
Labor Day 
Locks of Dread 
Natural Enhancement 
No Feelings 
No Utopia 
Parting Gift 
Proud Father 
Resurrection 
Smilin' Jay 
Soldier of Fortune 
Soul Market 
Starry Night 
Sweet Dreams 
Tainted Love 
Trident, The 
Turn Down, For What? 
Wasp Whisperer 

Brother Of Fortune 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
Season: Fall, Summer, Spring
Page Views: 334
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on May 26, 2013
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JMo, getting his fix on Brother of Fortune.

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Description 

Though this is a link up, I wanted to add it as a separate pitch so people would know its here. As described below this route makes for the easiest 5.10 climbing on the Right Wall, as well as delivering very consistent climbing at that grade. The line is riddled with positive holds, and It also avoids the rather awkward crux of BFAM which is now suffering from some deteriorating holds at the top of it's crux.

Climb BFAM to the break at 2/3 height just below the small dihedral. Do not clip the bolt in the mini dihedral to your right, but instead move just left on large holds and a very good #0 TCU in a horizontal gas pocket. You can place a couple TCUs here as it is a little ways and a .9+ move to some jugs before your next good gear. Continue moving up the shallow dihedral of Soldier Of Fortune passing good gear (#2) below the final .10- crux which guards the anchor.. Shares anchor with Soldier Of Fortune.


Location 

Starts on BFAM, finishes at the Soldier Of Fortune anchor.


Protection 

Bolts on the first 2/3, then a selection of small TCUs from #00 up, a couple hand sized pieces, and medium wires will all fit...



Photos of Brother Of Fortune Slideshow Add Photo
Brother of Fortune moves one more up from where I am at in the photo, and then busts left around the mini arÍte to great big holds, and skips the crux of BFAM. The bolt at my feet is the last one you clip. Gear from here .
Brother of Fortune moves one more up from where I ...
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By JMo
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 18, 2013

thanks for the heads up, this is a great warm-up option (honestly, for some of us, it's a main event).... don't read this if you aren't looking for gear beta: after clipping the last bolt JJ describes above, you can get a blue metolious in a horizontal out left (if for some idiotic reason like me you forgot your purple metolious), then a .75 in a bit of a flare (maybe this is where the #1 works better?) and then a bomber .4 above this. definitely bring 3-4 long runners.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 1, 2013

Finally got around to equipping Soldier of Fortune with its own anchor, which this link up now shares instead of climbing all the way to the Smiling Jay ledge. Hard to miss it, and its a clean rope run.