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 ADVANCED
Mount Huntington
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Brother Laurence T 
no name T 
Once is Enough T 
Perennial T,S 
Southern Migration T 
unnamed T 

Brother Laurence 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Bradley and Laurence White, 1984?
New Route: Yes
Season: summer-fall
Page Views: 368
Submitted By: bradley white on Jan 5, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Orange line and black loops belays.

Description 

The crux is on the long lower slab finish above the midway pretend belay. At upper tree ledge go down right until traverse ledge ends below white rock fractured head wall. Pretend again to have a belay and climb up central depression (5-2) with little gear. It terminates at good belay ledge slightly to the right. Climb up steep Gunk like horizontal broken giant rock fractured stacked wall (5-4) till stopped by root/dirt ceiling tree line. Escape right to trees growing out of near vertical rock gully. Two raps to ground. Although I gave this climb a low rating the last pitch is exciting. Don't know condition of this fractured wall nowadays. It was solid when my brother and I climbed it. First ascent I free soloed it and its reasonable to down climbing tree branches to next tree branches without rappel of gully fortunately.

Location 

On the far side of the tree ledge below and east before the third pitch of Perennial. Go up when there is no other way to go. No belay to keep rope straight.

Protection 

trad rack. Little protection until last pitch.


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