Brother Jug 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Aug 2, 2001 |
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Description This is your essential [1-move] wonder. In the vicinity of Die Heeda Rule and Tombstone this jug-fest lies waiting the eager 5.10 climber of any sort, Gym-rat, sport-boy, or crusted trad. The gear is [straight-forward], and the holds inspire confidence. Get ready to heel hook, heel-toe cam, and go for the big holds.
[Follow the directions to Die Heeda Rule. This route begins as for Die Heeda Rule, but at the top of the big flake, moves up and right onto the "jug-fest" face rather than left into the dihedral.]
Protection Standard rack.
By Josh Janes
Sep 21, 2002
| Seemed like a one-move wonder followed by some silly climbing above. |
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 6, 2004
rating: 5.8
| This is 5.8 tops if you can reach the hold. There are many Gunks 8s (land of roofs) much harder than this. I think the ceiling on P1 of Touch and Go is harder than this. Plus, it's essentially top roped with gear high on Die Heeda Rule (fixed nut as of today). The climbing above is pleasant (not silly as Josh says), with a bit of a move over a bulge and some runouts on easy knobs. |
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.9
| Not sure why people are being so hard on this one. Tons of fun, I thought. No, not a 10, as it was originally rated, but interesting and a nice "might as well since we're here" route.
One note--the slings on the juniper were missing as of 4/11, so I created a rap station on the large tree just down ridge above The Bowling Alley. |
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