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Brother Jug 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 2, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is your essential 1-move wonder, and rated like a gym climb for that move.

In the vicinity of Die Heeda Rule and Tombstone, this jug-fest lies waiting the eager 5.10 climber of any sort, Gym-rat, sport-boy, or crusted trad. The gear is straightforward, and the holds inspire confidence. Get ready to heel hook, heel-toe cam, and go for the big holds.

This route begins as for Die Heeda Rule, but at the top of the big flake, moves up and right onto the "jug-fest" face rather than left into the dihedral.


Protection 

Standard rack.


Location 

Follow the directions to Die Heeda Rule.



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By Josh Janes
Sep 21, 2002

Seemed like a one-move wonder followed by some silly climbing above.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 6, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This is 5.8 tops if you can reach the hold. There are many Gunks 8s (land of roofs) much harder than this. I think the ceiling on P1 of Touch and Go is harder than this. Plus, it's essentially top roped with gear high on Die Heeda Rule (fixed nut as of today). The climbing above is pleasant (not silly as Josh says), with a bit of a move over a bulge and some runouts on easy knobs.

By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Not sure why people are being so hard on this one. Tons of fun, I thought. No, not a 10, as it was originally rated, but interesting and a nice "might as well since we're here" route.
One note--the slings on the juniper were missing as of 4/11, so I created a rap station on the large tree just down ridge above The Bowling Alley.

By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Jan 19, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Updated anchor for this route. Could still use a second aluminum ring, though.