This superb power route climbs the third route from the left side of the crag. Reach the base by rock hopping across the river just below the Buttonrock Resevoir spillway. The furtherst left two lines are New Horizon
and Lost Horizon, a bolted arete and an insane finger crack, respectively.
The next line, BFAP, climbs the right side of this constant angle overhanging section of stone on unrelenting powerful slopers and edges. One leaves the security of the initial ramp and right corner launching onto the overhanging face after clipping the first two bolts. Fire immediately into the powerful crux, a big move to a small incut. One amazingly consistent move after another bring one to the top. Stellar.
Six bolts. Next to last had fixed biner and last was coldshut. Also webbing on blocks above for rapping.
Brother From Another Planet, 13b, has draws on it.
By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Short but sweet. Seemed easier than Old Yellar.
Also, the fixed biner is gone, and there is a single chain anchor in addition to the closed coldshut.
By Damon Vaughan
Nov 7, 2015
Super route! Four long slashes allow passage up a face that would otherwise be blank. Prospective suitors should note that it's a bit awkward getting up to the first bolt, and stick clipping from the ledge is not a bad idea.