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Brokendown Shanty 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,194
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Dec 19, 2008
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Double knee bar rest!
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an awesome chimney! Surprisingly clean and very fun. There is some loose stuff near the anchor, but you don't have to use/touch it. The crux is turning from right to left side in where the chimney pinches down.


Location 

This is the obvious bombay chimney behind the Driving over Stella pillar. You can see daylight in the chimney out the Too Dumb to Sleep In crack, so don't push TOO hard. Ha ha.


Protection 

3 bolts and 2 bolt anchor. It can easily be done on gear. If you have a #5, it might even be safer than using the 2nd bolt as it can be placed right above you at the crux.



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