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Broken Tooth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Biggie Smiles T 
Blue Sky Mining T 
Broken Tooth T 
Brown Baby Teeth T 
Chemotherapy T 
Dental Floss Tycoon T 
Dentist Chair T 
Dynamic Dentistry T 
Gingivitis T 
Heat Searcher T 
Incisor, The T 
Inflictor T 
Midnight Oil T 
Mondo T 
Mushrooms With Hefner T 
Novacaine T 
Numbing the Wild T 
Polygrip T 
Rhythm Method T 
Rock Lobster T 
Root Canal T 
Snaggle Tooth T 
Terminal Fistula T 
Tooth Fairy T 
Tooth Pac T 
Unbelievable T 
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 

Broken Tooth Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.10074, -109.56618 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,969
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: William McGehee on Oct 7, 2003

92° | 66°

96° | 66°

97° | 66°

95° | 66°

93° | 67°

91° | 67°
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That one short off width climb on the buttress lef...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.

Getting There 

Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.

Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.3 miles from here

28 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Broken Tooth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Broken Tooth:
Dental Floss Tycoon   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Midnight Oil   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   
Blue Sky Mining   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Incisor   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Tooth Fairy   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Rock Lobster   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 115'   
Numbing the Wild   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Dentist Chair   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Polygrip   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Heat Searcher   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Mondo   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Broken Tooth   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 100'   
Inflictor   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Rhythm Method   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 55'   
Unbelievable   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Broken Tooth

Featured Route For Broken Tooth
Rock Climbing Photo: Roberto enrolls in O-Dubya University

Tooth Fairy 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth
Aesthetic and grueling offwidth in a clean flaring corner. Crux for bigger people will be the first 20 feet consisting of tight handstacks without knee locks. Get creative to move those hands up! From there it widens to #5, then #6 camalots for a ways to a handjam below a tight cave. Pulling into this cave is the other burly crux. Use a nut behind a chockstone (there's only one that isn't loose) so you don't step on your gear thrutching in. Then a bunch more #5 and #6. At...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Broken Tooth Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in e...
Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in e...
Rock Climbing Photo: Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the appro...
Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the appro...
Rock Climbing Photo: It was cold at night, but great in the day!
It was cold at night, but great in the day!
Rock Climbing Photo: From the Fin Wall
From the Fin Wall

Comments on Broken Tooth Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jerome...
Jun 28, 2015
Does anyone know what the long steep zig zaging splitter not far (like 30') to the right of Dental Floss Tycon is? It's on the pillar, west facing and looks sweet. And it has an anchor...
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Jun 29, 2015
Shrooms with Heffner?
By Jerome...
Aug 3, 2015
No, but good guess.

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