That one short off width climb on the buttress lef...
BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.
Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.
Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.
Weather station 10.3 miles from here
26 Total Routes
['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Broken Tooth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broken Tooth:
The Incisor 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Tooth Fairy 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Polygrip 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Mondo 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Inflictor 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Featured Route For Broken Tooth
Tooth Fairy 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c UT
: Moab Area
: ... : Broken Tooth
Aesthetic and grueling offwidth in a clean flaring corner. Crux for bigger people will be the first 20 feet consisting of tight handstacks without knee locks. Get creative to move those hands up! From there it widens to #5, then #6 camalots for a ways to a handjam below a tight cave. Pulling into this cave is the other burly crux. Use a nut behind a chockstone (there's only one that isn't loose) so you don't step on your gear thrutching in. Then a bunch more #5 and #6. At...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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It was cold at night, but great in the day!