Broken Tooth Rock Climbing
That one short off width climb on the buttress lef...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.
Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.
Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.
Weather station 10.3 miles from here
28 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Broken Tooth
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Broken Tooth
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Broken Tooth:
The Incisor 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Tooth Fairy 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Polygrip 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Mondo 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Inflictor 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Featured Route For Broken Tooth
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c UT
: Moab Area
: ... : Broken Tooth
This route is a few hundred feet to the left of where the trail meets the rock. It is a long right facing corner that passes through a few roofs. It starts out with some laybacking that quickly turns to perfect hands. Its long, pumpy and awesome. It gets a five star, 5.11 grade in the guide but many will say a #2 Camalot-sized crack can't be harder than 5.10+. Go figure.(Per claramie's 2008 description for gold crown) " #7 in the bloom book. Didn't look 120' from the ground to m...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in e...
Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the appro...
It was cold at night, but great in the day!
Jun 28, 2015
Does anyone know what the long steep zig zaging splitter not far (like 30') to the right of Dental Floss Tycon is? It's on the pillar, west facing and looks sweet. And it has an anchor...
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Jun 29, 2015
Shrooms with Heffner?