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BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.
Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.
29 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Broken Tooth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broken Tooth:
unnamed 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Midnight Oil 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Blue Sky Mining 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
The Incisor 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Dental Floss Tycoon 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Tooth Fairy 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Unnamed short 11- 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Gold Crown 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Rock Lobster 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 115'
Polygrip 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Heat Searcher 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Dentist Chair 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Mondo 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Broken Tooth 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 100'
Inflictor 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Rhythm Method 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b Trad, 55'
Unbelievable 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b Trad, 90'
Featured Route For Broken Tooth
Rock Lobster 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth
This route lies approximately 50' to the right of the leaning pillar that defines Brokentooth Wall at the top of the approach trail. Cupping hands for the first 80', with rests in four or five flares fairly evenly spaced after 50'. Narrows to fingers near the top for the crux. Traverse right, go up, then back left to avoid the .11b if necessary. Can be TR'd with two 60's but you have to get around the knot. Great route!...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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