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Broken Tooth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Biggie Smiles T 
Blue Sky Mining T 
Broken Tooth T 
Brown Baby Teeth T 
Chemotherapy T 
Dental Floss Tycoon T 
Dentist Chair T 
Gingivitis T 
Heat Searcher T 
Incisor, The T 
Inflictor T 
Midnight Oil T 
Mondo T 
Mushrooms With Hefner T 
Novacaine T 
Numbing the Wild T 
Polygrip T 
Rhythm Method T 
Rock Lobster T 
Root Canal T 
Snaggle Tooth T 
Terminal Fistula T 
Tooth Fairy T 
Tooth Pac T 
Unbelievable T 
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 

Broken Tooth Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.10074, -109.56618 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 58,353
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: William McGehee on Oct 7, 2003
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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That one short off width climb on the buttress lef...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.

Getting There 

Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.

Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.3 miles from here

27 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Broken Tooth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Broken Tooth:
Blue Sky Mining   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Midnight Oil   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
The Incisor   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Tooth Fairy   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Dental Floss Tycoon   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Rock Lobster   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 115'   
Polygrip   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Heat Searcher   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Dentist Chair   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Mondo   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Broken Tooth   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 100'   
Inflictor   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Unbelievable   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 90'   
Rhythm Method   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 55'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Broken Tooth

Featured Route For Broken Tooth
Rock Climbing Photo: perfect .4 lay-backing.  Save two bd .5s and .75s ...

Polygrip 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth
Slightly hard than Rock Lobster, but way better. The Ruckman's guidebook says something about taping the right side of your harness for the finger layback section, but that's an exaggeration. The pitch begins with some tight hands and good feet that goes to a big ledge at the beginning of the killer finger layback section. Layback about forty feet of perfect fingers (yellow aliens), pull a thin hands bulge (crux), and finish with some thin hands....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Broken Tooth Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in e...
Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in e...
Rock Climbing Photo: Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the appro...
Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the appro...
Rock Climbing Photo: It was cold at night, but great in the day!
It was cold at night, but great in the day!
Rock Climbing Photo: From the Fin Wall
From the Fin Wall

Comments on Broken Tooth Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jerome...
Jun 28, 2015
Does anyone know what the long steep zig zaging splitter not far (like 30') to the right of Dental Floss Tycon is? It's on the pillar, west facing and looks sweet. And it has a anchor...
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Jun 29, 2015
Shrooms with Heffner?
By Jerome...
Aug 3, 2015
No, but good guess.

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