Broken Tooth  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  33,226. Good page? (2 likes)    Administrators:  Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  William McGehee on Oct 7, 2003 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat 72° | 52° 81° | 55° 81° | 54° 77° | 54° 81° | 54°

Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the appro...

Description 

BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.

Getting There 

Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.

Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.

The Classics

Featured Route For Broken Tooth

Dentist Chair 5.11+  UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth

Long Offwidth on the far right of the Broken Tooth.hands, fist, chimney, and offwidth splitter. No crux, just sustained.One of the best offwidths in the creek....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Broken Tooth Slideshow

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Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in e...	It was cold at night, but great in the day!	That one short off width climb on the buttress lef...