That one short off width climb on the buttress lef...
BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.
Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.
Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.
Weather station 10.3 miles from here
26 Total Routes
['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Broken Tooth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broken Tooth:
The Incisor 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Tooth Fairy 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Polygrip 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Mondo 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Inflictor 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Featured Route For Broken Tooth
Broken Tooth 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a UT
: Moab Area
: ... : Broken Tooth
Starts on top of a small block with tight hands in a flare which quickly go to hands and big hands. Pull up into a large cave below the "tooth". Move out left and pull up over the "tooth". Finish up the narrowing left-facing offset to the anchors. ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in e...
Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the appro...
It was cold at night, but great in the day!