2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Broken Rock is a fairly good name for this crag. Cracks riddle its faces, and most of the route development is in these cracks. The rock is somewhat similar to that of Castle in quality, but has a different aspect (North and West) and much less traffic. The climbs are mostly short and on a low tier, so they get shade when the sun is low. Perhaps this contributes to the overall "wetter" feel of this crag, with a little more lichen, moss, and oh... guano than most normally popular crags. Were this cliff clean and not right next to Castle Rock, it would see a lot of traffic.
Getting off of the routes here can be done by fixed anchors on some routes, by traversing to the fixed anchors from other routes, and by a walk-off uphill then back down, from the rest. I have done the two "recommended" routes by stars in Rossiter's book, and found the moves to be 3-star moves on decent rock, at least partially ruined by guano. This is Momentum Operator Crack (11a, technical, solid, overhanging jam crack to the best bomb-bay in the canyon) and Crack Up (5.9, leaning, overhanging dihedral with a hand-to-fist crack). The other lines nearby seem to be similar.
L->R (may not be correct):
A. Undercling?, 9, 1p, gear. B. Whimsey?, 11-, 1p, gear. C. Cosmic Whimp Out?, 11-, 1p, gear. D. Tree Trimmer?, 11, 1p, bolts & gear? E. Hung Jury?, 9+, 1p, gear. F. Out to Pasture?, 10-, 1p, gear. G. Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer, 11-, 1p, 60', gear. G. Momentum Operator, 11-, 1p, 60', gear. H. White Trash, 11, 1p, 65', bolts & gear. I. Crack Up, 9, 1p, 60', gear. J. Eulogy?, 9+, 1p, gear. K. Sue's Song?, 10, 1p, gear. L. Turkish Revenge?, 10, 1p, gear. M. South Beach, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts. N. Fit for Life, 12, 1p, 70', bolts & gear. O. Muad'Dib, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
Drive to Castle Rock and park. Go down the gravel road near Country Club Crack, where the road crosses the stream via a bridge. Walk over the bridge to the opposite side of the river (1 minute total, to here) and you are at Broken Rock. A majority of the routes are on the upper right-hand side, within 200 feet of the road. A few lie to the left.