Broken Rock is a fairly good name for this crag. Cracks riddle its faces, and most of the route development is in these cracks. The rock is somewhat similar to that of Castle in quality, but has a different aspect (North and West) and much less traffic. The climbs are mostly short and on a low tier, so they get shade when the sun is low. Perhaps this contributes to the overall "wetter" feel of this crag, with a little more lichen, moss, and oh... guano than most normally popular crags. Were this cliff clean and not right next to Castle Rock, it would see a lot of traffic.
Getting off of the routes here can be done by fixed anchors on some routes, by traversing to the fixed anchors from other routes, and by a walk-off uphill then back down, from the rest. I have done the two "recommended" routes by stars in Rossiter's book, and found the moves to be 3-star moves on decent rock, at least partially ruined by guano. This is Momentum Operator Crack (11a, technical, solid, overhanging jam crack to the best bomb-bay in the canyon) and Crack Up (5.9, leaning, overhanging dihedral with a hand-to-fist crack). The other lines nearby seem to be similar.
L->R (may not be correct):
A. Undercling?, 9, 1p, gear. B. Whimsey?, 11-, 1p, gear. C. Cosmic Whimp Out?, 11-, 1p, gear. D. Tree Trimmer?, 11, 1p, bolts & gear? E. Hung Jury?, 9+, 1p, gear. F. Out to Pasture?, 10-, 1p, gear. G. Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer, 11-, 1p, 60', gear. G. Momentum Operator, 11-, 1p, 60', gear. H. White Trash, 11, 1p, 65', bolts & gear. I. Crack Up, 9, 1p, 60', gear. J. Eulogy?, 9+, 1p, gear. K. Sue's Song?, 10, 1p, gear. L. Turkish Revenge?, 10, 1p, gear. M. South Beach, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts. N. Fit for Life, 12, 1p, 70', bolts & gear. O. Muad'Dib, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
Drive to Castle Rock and park. Go down the gravel road near Country Club Crack, where the road crosses the stream via a bridge. Walk over the bridge to the opposite side of the river (1 minute total, to here) and you are at Broken Rock. A majority of the routes are on the upper right-hand side, within 200 feet of the road. A few lie to the left.
The route starts on the far right side of the cliff at a lone, large pine tree. Cool climbing on good laybacks and edges get you past three bolts. Reach a horizontal crack and place gear. Layback up a thin flake and begin a series of hard technical moves past three more bolts to reach the anchor. Very good route with excellent moves. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO