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Gibraltar Rock
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Any Minute Now 
Broken Mirror 
Crank Start 
Inner Tube Toes 
Jabberwocky  
Klingon 
Ladder, The 
Mid-Face 
Nose, The 
Sea of Holes 
Self Reflection 
Shard, The 
T-Crack 
Variation of the Midface 

Broken Mirror 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bernd Zeugswetter, Andy Patterson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,470
Submitted By: andy patterson on Mar 28, 2011
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Andy Patterson enters the lower crux of Broken Mir...

Description 

Broken Mirror is a free variation to Mirror in the Bathroom, which was put up as an aid-route sometime in the 80's. Put simply: clean, fascinating, and exceptionally devious face-climbing with some pretty thrilling run-outs.

Long (for SB), sustained, and beautiful.


Location 

NW face of Gibraltar rock. To the right of T-Crack.


Protection 

8 draws.



Photos of Broken Mirror Slideshow Add Photo
Andy Patterson, hoping he doesn't fall.
Andy Patterson, hoping he doesn't fall.
Comments on Broken Mirror Add Comment
Show which comments
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Mar 31, 2011

Congrats, guys! Did you not replace the old buttonheads? That must be rather thrilling.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 17, 2011

We led on the original bolts, but they weren't buttonheads. Still, they could have been closer together!

By Richard Shore
Feb 20, 2012

Some really hard, really techy moves here. I'm coming back to this one, on top-rope of course! Not sure if I'd ever have the huevos to lead this rig. Can easily be TR'ed using the anchor bolts atop Self Reflection 5.11b/c. Rappel past the starting ledge/3-bolt anchor on Self Reflection to a two-bolt hanging belay another 40' down and slightly left.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 26, 2012

From the "Hole-rest" on Broken Mirror, there seems to be a rather tempting line up and left, just waiting to be climbed. The prospective line follows the arc of those concoidal fractures to the right of T-Crack. It would eventually join up with the hand-traverse ledge in the middle of T-Crack. It would need a bolt, probably two. Someone check it out!

By Nick Sullens
From: Hong Kong, Hong Kong
May 7, 2012

The crux moves coming over the roof are super funky, Will Barnes and I had good fun on it after being shown the line by Andy. A bit gritty from lack of use...

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 8, 2012

Thanks for getting on this rig, Will and Nick. The only cure for grittiness is traffic.