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Gemstone West
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broken Ladders  T 
Christian Crack T 
Fin Left, The T 
Flail Out T 
Gemstone T 
Green Snake - P2 T 
Pair of 4s T 
Seamingly Hard T 
Shoots & Ladders T 

Broken Ladders  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?? (Alam and Roump 1990)
Page Views: 396
Submitted By: Alam on Jul 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Broken Ladders from the top (P2 ) of shoots and la...

Description 

This is a single pitch (100') on very nice solid rock with great gear. This could be considered a P3 extension to shoots and ladders, as it starts 25 feet from the top of P2 of shoots and ladders.

Belay in a notch between the wall and large block. Climb double crack for 10-15', then hand traverse on thin crack (crux?) for 15 ' to gain left facing dihedral. Climb this dihedral until it become a crack, flake system on face which finally disappears. Finish by climbing up into large blocks to a sling belay.


Location 

Located above shoots and Ladders - Gemstone West.

Rappel - we have always used 2 ropes, but it should be doable with a 65 m rope.


Protection 

All natural gear - thin to 3.5 inches.



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By Howard Snell
From: Belen, New Mexico
Oct 28, 2012

This is a really enjoyable climb. If you like Flake n Bake but wish it was a bit more challenging then Broken Ladders could be for you. The finger traverse looks thin from below, but it's a great finger crack and takes 0.3" to 0.5" pieces.

By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

One can rap with a single 60 meter rope. But don't rap by following the route. Instead, follow something closer to a plumb line which eventually drops into a huge right-facing dihedral (climber's view).

By Alam
Jan 7, 2014

The direct line (noted by Bill as the rap) has also been toproped. Start the same crack as broken ladders and climb straight up past a ultrathin crack and then onto a face to finally end at the rap station (5.6-5.7). I have not lead it yet as there is a section (40+) of no gear which would end in ground fall if a mistake was made.

By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jan 16, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The direct line (noted by Bill as the rap) has also been toproped. Start the same crack as broken ladders ...

Todd, Our rap with a 60m (doubled) ended quite a bit climber's right of the start of Broken Ladders ... ~25 feet maybe? I haven't tried rapping back to the start of BL and so am not certain a 60 will reach.

BL - great initials by he way. ;-)