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This is a single pitch (100') on very nice solid rock with great gear. This could be considered a P3 extension to shoots and ladders, as it starts 25 feet from the top of P2 of shoots and ladders.
Belay in a notch between the wall and large block. Climb double crack for 10-15', then hand traverse on thin crack (crux?) for 15 ' to gain left facing dihedral. Climb this dihedral until it become a crack, flake system on face which finally disappears. Finish by climbing up into large blocks to a sling belay.
Located above shoots and Ladders - Gemstone West.
Rappel - we have always used 2 ropes, but it should be doable with a 65 m rope.
All natural gear - thin to 3.5 inches.
|Comments on Broken Ladders
|By Howard Snell|
From: Belen, New Mexico
Oct 28, 2012
This is a really enjoyable climb. If you like Flake n Bake but wish it was a bit more challenging then Broken Ladders could be for you. The finger traverse looks thin from below, but it's a great finger crack and takes 0.3" to 0.5" pieces.
|By Bill Lawry|
From: New Mexico
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
One can rap with a single 60 meter rope. But don't rap by following the route. Instead, follow something closer to a plumb line which eventually drops into a huge right-facing dihedral (climber's view).