||Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Bob Gaines, Frank Bentwood & Al Sanderson, December 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||834|
|Submitted By: ||Murf on Jan 28, 2010|
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BETA PHOTO: Broken Hearted (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP
A scrappy high step starts this route which is steeper and sharper than its immediate neighbors to the right. Fairly continuous climbing leads to the crux at the third bolt. After surmounting the headwall, the climbing becomes easier climbing a scoop up to the ledge. You can either cross to the anchors for Tim's Valentine
, or climb through the next face (gear) to another anchor.
5 bolts, a few pieces if climbing past the second headwall to anchors.
Tucker Tech on Broken Hearted.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 29, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
This route has really cleaned up over the past few years. What initially was a bit flakey and sharp now has clean smears and good edges. 5 bolts with the last exiting up and right toward to the Tim's Valentine anchor as listed or up and left past a bolt and up a block to optional anchor. No additonal gear necessary, just keep going... it's up there.