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Broken Dreams 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 2008 Tony Lusk, Tony Horness, Andy Tretiakoff, Dave Weeks
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 598
Submitted By: Antoine Horness on Aug 10, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: so-so photo, bolts visible right of rope all the w...
UPDATE 09/23/11* Warning: Bolt and/or hangers missing. Bolts and/or rock on the far right hand side of this wall may be of questionable integrity. Bolts reportedly pulled on Pali Gap and adjacent routes. Check back for further updates from the FA. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Stem crux above ledge


Location 

Fourth route from the north side


Protection 

B,C



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By David K
Feb 2, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The crux here was super tough for me.

By jonathan horst
From: Tucson, AZ
May 29, 2009

broken dreams...yeah. seriously glued on crux move hold. it's solid though.

By Mike Senigo
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

It looks good right of the crux, but its best to stay on the boltline: stem it, get a good pull and grab that solid lip, clip up and enjoy.

By Kyle Coleman
From: St Thomas, VI
Jun 14, 2009

Great climb, but wasn't sure about that hold that has been glued in. Seems solid though.

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

the second clip off the ledge is the hardest part of the route. i don't know why it's way off to the left there when all the holds are on the right.