||Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400', Grade IV
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C2 [details]|
|FA: ||Paul and Andy Ross, Cameron Burns. 7th Nov 2005|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,657|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Jan 21, 2006|
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Dreamspeaker Tower as seen from the start of Dream...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
The route up Dreamcatcher climbs the north face up the obvious crack line. For reasons such as weather, time, gear problems, etc. the ascent took three attempts over a period of a year. On the first two Andy Ross led the first and third pitch, Paul Ross the second, and then with great support from Mr Cam Burns, Ross eventually led the long awaited final pitch to the summit. Starts just right of a massive chimney up a short slab to enter the crack system.There are two ways to approach the tower from the rim or the four wheel drive up the canyon.
P1). Up the slab past two bolts, then follow the crack free and aid to double anchors. 130', 5.9 C2.
P2). Slightly overhanging thin cracks with intermittent bolts to double anchors. 70', 5.8 C2.
P3). Climb the overhanging thin crack for 25', and then the angle eases up a wide crack to double anchors on a large ledge. 100', 5.8+ C2.
P4). Move the belay right 25' to natural anchors.(Register here as there was no place to stash on the summit ) Traverse right past a bolt for about 30', then up a short bolt ladder to the summit. Rap and belay anchors to the left. 60', 5.8 C1.
Descent: Rap the route, taking care on overhanging sections.
Three sets of Cams from Aliens to two #5 Friends and One #6 Friend.Stoppers. Two 60m ropes.
Paul on the steep pitch two of Broken Dreams.
Paul belayed by Andy on pitch two of Broken Dreams...
Andy starting pitch three Broken Dreams.
Paul on the last pitch of Broken Dreams
Two tiny figures of Ross and Burns on the summit o...
The Right Honourable Cameron Burns Esq on the Summ...
Why lazy buggas sport climb !!
Lads on top . Cam Burns and Paul Ross on the Summi...
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Dec 9, 2012
No know second ascent as of 2012
By Ben Kiessel
Feb 7, 2013
-Bill and I climbed this 2/3/2013.
-Good route guys! Great view from the top!
-I was a little confused as to why the register was a pitch from the top until we got up there and realized there was nowhere to put it.
-We hiked in from the rim on the south side of the towers. We fixed a line on the way in and then found a way to hike out on the way out. 2 hrs in and 2 hrs out. I'm not super stoked to take this approach again.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
May 7, 2013
Congrats Ben and Bill and greetings from the UK.. Glad you had fun .. Cheers Paul