|1,291 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade IV|
|Consensus: ||5.9 C2 [details]|
|FA: ||Paul and Andy Ross, Cameron Burns. 7th Nov 2005|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Jan 21, 2006|
Paul belayed by Andy on pitch two of Broken Dreams...
The route up Dreamcatcher climbs the north face up the obvious crack line. For reasons such as weather, time, gear problems, etc. the ascent took three attempts over a period of a year. On the first two Andy Ross led the first and third pitch, Paul Ross the second, and then with great support from Mr Cam Burns, Ross eventually led the long awaited final pitch to the summit. Starts just right of a massive chimney up a short slab to enter the crack system.
P1). Up the slab past two bolts, then follow the crack free and aid to double anchors. 130', 5.9 C2.
P2). Slightly overhanging thin cracks with intermittent bolts to double anchors. 70', 5.8 C2.
P3). Climb the overhanging thin crack for 25', and then the angle eases up a wide crack to double anchors on a large ledge. 100', 5.8+ C2.
P4). Move the belay right 25' to natural anchors. Traverse right past a bolt for about 30', then up a short bolt ladder to the summit. Rap and belay anchors to the left. 60', 5.8 C1.
Descent: Rap the route, taking care on overhanging sections.
Three sets of Cams from Aliens to two #5 Friends and One #6 Friend.Stoppers. Two 60m ropes.
Paul on the steep pitch two of Broken Dreams.
Andy starting pitch three Broken Dreams.
Paul on the last pitch of Broken Dreams
The Right Honourable Cameron Burns Esq on the Summ...
Lads on top . Cam Burns and Paul Ross on the Summi...
Two tiny figures of Ross and Burns on the summit o...
Dreamspeaker Tower as seen from the start of Dream...
Why lazy buggas sport climb !!
More of first pitch...
View up Arch Canyon
|Comments on Broken Dreams
Dec 9, 2012
No know second ascent as of 2012
|By Ben Kiessel|
Feb 7, 2013
-Bill and I climbed this 2/3/2013.
-Good route guys! Great view from the top!
-I was a little confused as to why the register was a pitch from the top until we got up there and realized there was nowhere to put it.
-We hiked in from the rim on the south side of the towers. We fixed a line on the way in and then found a way to hike out on the way out. 2 hrs in and 2 hrs out. I'm not super stoked to take this approach again.
May 7, 2013
Congrats Ben from the UK.. Glad you had fun .. Cheers Paul