|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Season:||May - Oct|
|Submitted By:||Jay Harrison on Nov 18, 2011|
|Comments on Broken Broom||Add Comment|
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By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Nov 20, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|The first 40 feet of this route have extremely satisfying technical moves. You will wish the intial flake goes on forever. You can get very aesthetic photos of this climb by easily scrambling out the ledge at the top of Torcher, just right of the climb.|
Aug 7, 2012
Intricate face moves. I've heard that a key handhold for the balancy low crux is now less positive than a year ago.
Note that there is another route "Pinch an Inch" close next to it on climber's Right (with a harder low crux sequence, but easier climbing higher up). And higher up it's possible to wander left onto the (easier) top section of "Amphitheater Crack". So to find the harder more interesting climbing above the low crux stay reasonably close to the line of bolts (and away from less-cleaned lichen).