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Broken Broom 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Summer 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: May - Oct
Page Views: 557
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Nov 18, 2011
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Jay H. leads Broken Broom in Roctober.

Description 

Well-protected (i.e. plenty of bolts) face climbing and consistently challenging, this line is a more comfortable and more sustained twin of its neighbor, Pinch an Inch.
There are 2 cruxes, getting past the 1st and 2nd bolts. A few sloper moves round out the challenge before reaching the anchors.
Climb the leftmost of a series of short, vertical crack/corners right of Amphitheatre Crack, up right past the first bolt to a slanting, rounded ledge. Ride this up left to its tippy-top, clip another bolt, and make a hard move to a horizontal crack. Climb the face above this on rounded holds, passing two more bolts along the way, to join Amphitheatre Crack inches from the anchor ledge.

NOTE: A lot of ice forms over the lip of the Birthday Corner early in the season. It falls from >30m up, landing among the base of all the Amphitheatre area routes. Even after the main winter's accumulation has fallen, nightly formations continue to bombard the area. Be watchful, wear a helmet, and if big ice is looming above on that crystalline spring morning, maybe climb somewhere else.


Location 

15' right of Amphitheatre Crack, 20' left of the right-facing corner of Dexter's Dugout, at the leftmost series of small corners in the steep face.


Protection 

Bring a standard rack of cams and 4 QDs for the 4 bolts enroute.
Anchors at 70'.



Photos of Broken Broom Slideshow Add Photo
Bruce Monroe starting up <em>Broken Broom</em>.
Bruce Monroe starting up Broken Broom.
Ben balances up the delicate face moves.
Ben balances up the delicate face moves.
Comments on Broken Broom Add Comment
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By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Nov 20, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The first 40 feet of this route have extremely satisfying technical moves. You will wish the intial flake goes on forever. You can get very aesthetic photos of this climb by easily scrambling out the ledge at the top of Torcher, just right of the climb.

By kenr
Aug 7, 2012

Intricate face moves. I've heard that a key handhold for the balancy low crux is now less positive than a year ago.

Note that there is another route "Pinch an Inch" close next to it on climber's Right (with a harder low crux sequence, but easier climbing higher up). And higher up it's possible to wander left onto the (easier) top section of "Amphitheater Crack". So to find the harder more interesting climbing above the low crux stay reasonably close to the line of bolts (and away from less-cleaned lichen).