Broken Brain  5.12b/c

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Type:  Trad, 120 feet Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  ??? Season:  gets shade in the summer Submitted By:  camhead on Nov 29, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Steven sending

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Description 

This is a mega classic. The first half of the climb starts as a not-easy finger crack before getting into a series of hand cracks through pods. The first two pods are easy to jam around; the final, which has a bolt near it, requires one move of leavittation.

This puts you at the base of an awesome headwall, and one of the steepest splitters at the Creek. Go from good hands, to thin hands, to ringlocks, to hard finger stacks as the pump builds! The splitter is a bit offset, so you can't really go hand-over-hand, and every move is harder than the one before it. You will see how it lured Tommy Caldwell into a layback right before he took that famous whipper a few years back. The final mantle from a mediocre fingerlock feels like the crux. I have heard this climb described as "like Rock Lobster, but 30 degrees overhung."!

Location 

Perhaps a little to the left of where the approach trail reaches the cliff base. This line is impossible to miss.

Protection 

one bolt, a few fingers and hands pices for the lower section, and then perhaps three of each from gold camalot down to green camalot for the headwall; then finally one purple (.5).

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