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Cliffs of Insanity
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Are There Rocks Ahead  T 
As you wish T 
Back to the Beginning T 
Broken Brain T 
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Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 
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Wiggins I T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Broken Brain 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: ???
Season: gets shade in the summer
Page Views: 6,045
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Steven sending

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is a mega classic. The first half of the climb starts as a not-easy finger crack before getting into a series of hand cracks through pods. The first two pods are easy to jam around; the final, which has a bolt near it, requires one move of leavittation.

This puts you at the base of an awesome headwall, and one of the steepest splitters at the Creek. Go from good hands, to thin hands, to ringlocks, to hard finger stacks as the pump builds! The splitter is a bit offset, so you can't really go hand-over-hand, and every move is harder than the one before it. You will see how it lured Tommy Caldwell into a layback right before he took that famous whipper a few years back. The final mantle from a mediocre fingerlock feels like the crux. I have heard this climb described as "like Rock Lobster, but 30 degrees overhung."!


Perhaps a little to the left of where the approach trail reaches the cliff base. This line is impossible to miss.


one bolt, a few fingers and hands pices for the lower section, and then perhaps three of each from gold camalot down to green camalot for the headwall; then finally one purple (.5).

Photos of Broken Brain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin on the send
Justin on the send
Rock Climbing Photo: Dream climb
Dream climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin sending
Justin sending
Rock Climbing Photo: Yeah, it's a pretty cool line.
Yeah, it's a pretty cool line.

Comments on Broken Brain Add Comment
Show which comments
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Nov 29, 2006

Check out Return2Sender for the video beta...
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 26, 2011

FA Petro?
By chris Kalous
Apr 9, 2012

Funny. Remembering Vera topping out in the Return2sender video at the last milli-second saved me. Luckily, I had that vision rather than the Tommy picture!

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