|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1000', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||franciscov on Jul 31, 2012|
|Comments on Broken Blade Ridge||Add Comment|
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By Jay Carroll
Aug 4, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bring helmets on this one. There's a few loose rocks. Hopefully, we cleaned most of them off. A standard rack is fine.
Pitch 1: Belay from the furthest point out on the ridge to avoid rockfall from the leader. After the initial hump, we went a bit leftward to steeper terrain. Lichen in some places adds to the difficulty (maybe a 5.8+ if you count the lichen).
Pitch 2: Easy climbing, but you do need to place protection when solid rock is available. This gets you to the ridge. Broken blade is about halfway across the ridge.
Pitch 3: After a 5th class scramble along the ridge (we stayed roped up), you can reach the bottom of broken blade. If you're up there, you should do it since it is the most fun. After rappelling back to the ridge, you can hike to the bottom of pitch 4.
Pitch 4: There are two obvious cracks in the upper part of the ridge. We took the one on the left with a bit of an overhang and less rock lettuce. The crux is actually before the overhang and the lichen adds a grade of difficulty. I'd consider this 5.9 if you count the lichen. After the overhang, there's a fun crack to move up. There's a flat spot at the top of pitch 4 to belay from.
A short class 4/5 scramble would probably get you to the true summit, but this is a good point to follow a bit of a ridge diagonally down southeast to walk back to the bottom. The first part of the walkoff is class 4 and it's not a bad idea to stay on rope. The hike back to the bottom isn't bad and I'd recommend leaving your bags at the start.