Broken Arrows  5.12d

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Type:  Sport, 60 feet Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  John Gogus Submitted By:  claude. on Aug 24, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Beginning the crux on Broken Arrows

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Description 

Starts in the middle of the cave (last route on the left side) on obvious chalked slots. Make long moves through good slots and crimps to a good rest. Complete the difficult, technical boulder problem between V4-V5. The crux hold has apparently long since broken making the crux move just out of the rest either a right-handed (very temperature dependent two finger stack in a pocket) or do the move left-handed, grabbing the same hold as a pinch. Clip the chains after navigating through the final steep headwall grabbing nothing but big holds.

Significantly harder than any other route on the left side of the cave. The boulder problem is long, hard and technical. Harder for shorter people.

Protection 

bolts

Photos of Broken Arrows Slideshow

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Pretending to be tall at the start	Matthew NM powers through reaches at the start of ...	Moving into the extended boulder problem crux
Matthew NM moving into the second undercling as op...	Matthew NM sticking the last hard move before the ...