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Beginning the crux on Broken Arrows
Starts in the middle of the cave (last route on the left side) on obvious chalked slots. Make long moves through good slots and crimps to a good rest. Complete the difficult, technical boulder problem between V4-V5. The crux hold has apparently long since broken making the crux move just out of the rest either a right-handed (very temperature dependent two finger stack in a pocket) or do the move left-handed, grabbing the same hold as a pinch. Clip the chains after navigating through the final steep headwall grabbing nothing but big holds.
Significantly harder than any other route on the left side of the cave. The boulder problem is long, hard and technical. Harder for shorter people.
Pretending to be tall at the start
Matthew NM powers through reaches at the start of ...
Moving into the extended boulder problem crux
Matthew NM moving into the second undercling as op...
Matthew NM sticking the last hard move before the ...
|Comments on Broken Arrows
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 7, 2010
Found better beta for the crux, hint: don't use the broken pocket...
The crux is longer though than the other 5.12+'s on the wall.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 22, 2011
Lee's beta makes this route totally reasonable at the 12d grade, it made the crux feel a V grade or two easier, especially for shorter climbers.