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Broken Arrows 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: John Gogus
Page Views: 1,487
Submitted By: claude. on Aug 24, 2009

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Moving into the extended boulder problem crux

Description 

Starts in the middle of the cave (last route on the left side) on obvious chalked slots. Make long moves through good slots and crimps to a good rest. Complete the difficult, technical boulder problem between V4-V5. The crux hold has apparently long since broken making the crux move just out of the rest either a right-handed (very temperature dependent two finger stack in a pocket) or do the move left-handed, grabbing the same hold as a pinch. Clip the chains after navigating through the final steep headwall grabbing nothing but big holds.

Significantly harder than any other route on the left side of the cave. The boulder problem is long, hard and technical. Harder for shorter people.

Protection 

bolts


Photos of Broken Arrows Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matthew NM moving into the second undercling as op...
Matthew NM moving into the second undercling as op...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning the crux on Broken Arrows
Beginning the crux on Broken Arrows
Rock Climbing Photo: Matthew NM powers through reaches at the start of ...
Matthew NM powers through reaches at the start of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pretending to be tall at the start
Pretending to be tall at the start
Rock Climbing Photo: Matthew NM sticking the last hard move before the ...
Matthew NM sticking the last hard move before the ...

Comments on Broken Arrows Add Comment
Show which comments
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 7, 2010

Found better beta for the crux, hint: don't use the broken pocket...

The crux is longer though than the other 5.12+'s on the wall.
By DisturbingThePeace
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Feb 22, 2011
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Lee's beta makes this route totally reasonable at the 12d grade, it made the crux feel a V grade or two easier, especially for shorter climbers.

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