Broken Arrow  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Marvin Webb, Ronnie Shehee - 1981 Submitted By:  saxfiend on Jul 8, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mike on Broken Arrow, Sunset Park, TN

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Description 

Broken Arrow is a dynamite climb, stiff for the grade. It's well-protected, the rock is great and there's nice variety along the way. With relatively few opportunities for rest stances, this physically demanding route will test your stamina.

Starting in a left-facing open-book corner, stem/jam/layback your way up to a roof. Moving right out from under the roof, climb a steep ramp up and right to a ledge, then straight up to anchors at the top.

NOTE: There is an alternate start (5.9) and several alternate finishes; see the Dixie Cragger for details.

Location 

Starts about 10' left of The White Wall. Rap from ring anchors.

Protection 

Small to medium cams and passive pro; bolted anchors. NOTE: because this route finishes significantly to the right of the start, toproping is problematical. If you're going to do it, leave one or more directionals to protect against pendulum falls.