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Unsorted Routes:

Broken Arrow 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Marvin Webb, Ronnie Shehee - 1981
Page Views: 1,626
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jul 8, 2007
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Mike on Broken Arrow, Sunset Park, TN

Description 

Broken Arrow is a dynamite climb, stiff for the grade. It's well-protected, the rock is great and there's nice variety along the way. With relatively few opportunities for rest stances, this physically demanding route will test your stamina.

Starting in a left-facing open-book corner, stem/jam/layback your way up to a roof. Moving right out from under the roof, climb a steep ramp up and right to a ledge, then straight up to anchors at the top.

NOTE: There is an alternate start (5.9) and several alternate finishes; see the Dixie Cragger for details.


Location 

Starts about 10' left of The White Wall. Rap from ring anchors.


Protection 

Small to medium cams and passive pro; bolted anchors. NOTE: because this route finishes significantly to the right of the start, toproping is problematical. If you're going to do it, leave one or more directionals to protect against pendulum falls.



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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jul 8, 2007

Cowabunga! This is a real workout. My partner said the crux for him was the move up from under the roof, but I thought the lower section was harder.

By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010

Crux mid way protects with small gear.