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Broken Arrow 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Marvin Webb, Ronnie Shehee - 1981
Page Views: 2,157
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jul 8, 2007

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Mike on Broken Arrow, Sunset Park, TN


Broken Arrow is a dynamite climb, stiff for the grade. It's well-protected, the rock is great and there's nice variety along the way. With relatively few opportunities for rest stances, this physically demanding route will test your stamina.

Starting in a left-facing open-book corner, stem/jam/layback your way up to a roof. Moving right out from under the roof, climb a steep ramp up and right to a ledge, then straight up to anchors at the top.

NOTE: There is an alternate start (5.9) and several alternate finishes; see the Dixie Cragger for details.


Starts about 10' left of The White Wall. Rap from ring anchors.


Small to medium cams and passive pro; bolted anchors. NOTE: because this route finishes significantly to the right of the start, toproping is problematical. If you're going to do it, leave one or more directionals to protect against pendulum falls.

Comments on Broken Arrow Add Comment
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By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Jul 8, 2007

Cowabunga! This is a real workout. My partner said the crux for him was the move up from under the roof, but I thought the lower section was harder.
By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010

Crux mid way protects with small gear.

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