Broken Arrow 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Wright, Montagu, Tarrant, ABS, June 2001 |
| Submitted By: | Richard M. Wright on Jun 18, 2001 |
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Pat Burwick launching the arrow.
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Description Broken Arrow takes the steep, yellow plate left of the unnamed wide crack on the West face of Scout Rock. The Arrow splits the face on the diagonal with a horizontal breaking line at 40 feet. Easy moves lead to a small lip and a difficult sequence stepping up onto the face. Very thin smears with largely good hands kick up several technical cruxes. The climbing is intricate, elegant, technical and not any where near as hard as it might appear. There is a final 5.11c move just below the anchor, so save a little juice for it. The only creepy move comes in the middle where things get a bit committing, otherwise the line is well sewn up. Three stars for the great climbing moves, improbable footwork, superb stone, and the striking features of the line.
Protection QDs only. This 70 foot routes needs 8 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
Pat at the lip.
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Pat moving up.
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Pat looking for feet.
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Pat chilling.
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Pat clipping the anchor.
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 20, 2001
| I don't know what is going on with all of these self rightous SSV climbers. I did Broken Arrow this weekend (8/19) and I thought it was one of the most elegant one pitch climbs I have ever done. - Brian Walsh |
By Cale Farnham
From: loveland,CO
Aug 14, 2009
| Did this yesterday with Scotty, Phil and Erin. Killer line thought there was two cruxes one right before the shallow seam and right at the roof making the move to the nice left jug a couple feet above the last bolt! Definitely a must do line!! |
By slim
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.11a
| Pretty good route. A couple bolts are in awkward spots on the upper part, which is a little unfortunate. It works out ok, but would definitely favor a redpoint effort versus an onsight effort, which I kind of don't agree with. The onsight effort requires going one or two moves past the best stances to be able to clip. It would definitely be substantially easier with prehung draws. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 22, 2012
rating: 5.11c
| Maybe it is a height thing - I thought the clips were OK but were meant to be clipped from a high stance rather than pulling a lot of rope up. Great climb that requires the leader to milk the good holds for rests and maintain good footwork. Bullet rock.
Just when you think it is over - there is a final surprise.
Too bad it isn't a longer climb and a nicer setting, or it would be 4-star. 3-star as it is. |
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