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Scout Rock
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Unsorted Routes:

Broken Arrow 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Wright, Montagu, Tarrant, ABS, June 2001
Page Views: 1,810
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 18, 2001
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Pat Burwick launching the arrow.

Description 

Broken Arrow takes the steep, yellow plate left of the unnamed wide crack on the West face of Scout Rock. The Arrow splits the face on the diagonal with a horizontal breaking line at 40 feet. Easy moves lead to a small lip and a difficult sequence stepping up onto the face. Very thin smears with largely good hands kick up several technical cruxes. The climbing is intricate, elegant, technical and not any where near as hard as it might appear. There is a final 5.11c move just below the anchor, so save a little juice for it. The only creepy move comes in the middle where things get a bit committing, otherwise the line is well sewn up. Three stars for the great climbing moves, improbable footwork, superb stone, and the striking features of the line.


Protection 

QDs only. This 70 foot routes needs 8 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



Photos of Broken Arrow Slideshow Add Photo
Pat chilling.
Pat chilling.
Pat at the lip.
Pat at the lip.
Pat looking for feet.
Pat looking for feet.
Pat moving up.
Pat moving up.
Pat clipping the anchor.
Pat clipping the anchor.
Comments on Broken Arrow Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 20, 2001

I don't know what is going on with all of these self rightous SSV climbers. I did Broken Arrow this weekend (8/19) and I thought it was one of the most elegant one pitch climbs I have ever done. - Brian Walsh

By Cale Farnham
Aug 14, 2009

Did this yesterday with Scotty, Phil and Erin. Killer line thought there was two cruxes one right before the shallow seam and right at the roof making the move to the nice left jug a couple feet above the last bolt! Definitely a must do line!!

By slim
Administrator
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Pretty good route. A couple bolts are in awkward spots on the upper part, which is a little unfortunate. It works out ok, but would definitely favor a redpoint effort versus an onsight effort, which I kind of don't agree with. The onsight effort requires going one or two moves past the best stances to be able to clip. It would definitely be substantially easier with prehung draws.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 22, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Maybe it is a height thing - I thought the clips were OK but were meant to be clipped from a high stance rather than pulling a lot of rope up. Great climb that requires the leader to milk the good holds for rests and maintain good footwork. Bullet rock.
Just when you think it is over - there is a final surprise.
Too bad it isn't a longer climb and a nicer setting, or it would be 4-star. 3-star as it is.