Brogan Spire 

anyone know about the route just right of Beth Rodden's new 5.14? It starts with huge holds in huecos and is sort of half moon shaped, left then back right.
It's 11.b or so...?? Quite good.

i haven't done this route, but it's called, pouches 11c.

That's not really Beth Rodden's new 5.14. That climb is actually called The Great Roof, which was climbed on aid in 1966 with many fewer bolts. Ethics at Smith were lost and bolts were added, not by Beth. This brought down the adventure level of a route that could be enjoyed by more people, still into the art of placing protection. Those bolts should be chopped. It should be freed when the natural protection readily available on that climb is used.

Is there really enough natural protection for The Optimist to go with natural protection? From the video it looked like Beth was using a lot of pin scars and not much else in that crack.

If rappelling from the chains on the Cave Route side of the summit: (the first set encountered while on that route)
thread your ropes through the higher rap ring on the left bolt to avoid a heinously difficult rope pull/stuck rope.