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Brogan Spire

Select Route:
Barred Reality T,S 
Cave Route T 
Death Of a Raven S 
Pouches S 
Short Sharp Shock S 
South Buttress T 
Under the Gun S 
Walking on Broken Glass S 
West Face T 

Brogan Spire  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 300'
Page Views: 6,760
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 8, 2006
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Description 

Home to a wide variety of climbs from a 4 star 5.6 multipitch outing (Cave Route)to a brand new 14.b (The Optomist) as well as a decent selection of routes in between.
Well worth the hike.

Getting There 

Follow the trail past Koala Rock. and the Great Roof will be obvious with the spire above (see picture).

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.3 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Brogan Spire:
South Buttress   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Cave Route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Death Of a Raven   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   
Under the Gun   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   
Short Sharp Shock   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Pouches   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Brogan Spire

Featured Route For Brogan Spire
Nate Tack pulls on some Pouches

Pouches 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  OR : Smith Rock : ... : Brogan Spire
Start on jugs, semi-jugs, and good crimps. Keep cool for the powerful crux, which comes at roughly mid-height. I had to cut my feet on the throw at the crux - something I rarely have to do for a moderate route at Smith. The finish is a rightward traverse. It looks like it's going to turn sinister at any moment, but just enjoy it, the hardest is behind you. It's well-protected and is one of those rare Smith moderates that requires a bit of power and dynamism. Combine all this with the fact th...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of Brogan Spire Slideshow Add Photo
View of Smith Rock State Park from the summit of Brogan Spire.
View of Smith Rock State Park from the summit of B...
Climber on the summit of Brogan Spire above the Great Roof.
Climber on the summit of Brogan Spire above the Gr...
on the summit spire
on the summit spire
wahoo!
wahoo!

Comments on Brogan Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryson Slothower
Apr 11, 2006
anyone know about the route just right of Beth Rodden's new 5.14? It starts with huge holds in huecos and is sort of half moon shaped, left then back right.
It's 11.b or so...?? Quite good.
By mark d
Apr 19, 2006
i haven't done this route, but it's called, pouches 11c.
By corvegas
From: the depths of oregon
May 15, 2006
That's not really Beth Rodden's new 5.14. That climb is actually called The Great Roof, which was climbed on aid in 1966 with many fewer bolts. Ethics at Smith were lost and bolts were added, not by Beth. This brought down the adventure level of a route that could be enjoyed by more people, still into the art of placing protection. Those bolts should be chopped. It should be freed when the natural protection readily available on that climb is used.
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 20, 2006
Is there really enough natural protection for The Optimist to go with natural protection? From the video it looked like Beth was using a lot of pin scars and not much else in that crack.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Nov 10, 2011
If rappelling from the chains on the Cave Route side of the summit: (the first set encountered while on that route)
thread your ropes through the higher rap ring on the left bolt to avoid a heinously difficult rope pull/stuck rope.