"After a powerful boulder problem off the ground, tricky moves on weird looking rock lead to a beautiful slab. Climb the simple slab past widely spaced bolts to an anchor on a large ledge. Another boulder problem leads past two bolts to a second anchor. The third pitch climbs from the hole in The Cave Route straight up the featured slab to the summit. Rappel The Cave Route." -- Rod Jacobson's Smith Rock '09 SupplementDouble rope rappel from last anchor. DO NOT RAPPEL FROM 1st OR 2nd BELAY STATIO...[more]Browse More Classics in OR
i haven't done this route, but it's called, pouches 11c.
By corvegas From: the depths of oregon May 15, 2006
That's not really Beth Rodden's new 5.14. That climb is actually called The Great Roof, which was climbed on aid in 1966 with many fewer bolts. Ethics at Smith were lost and bolts were added, not by Beth. This brought down the adventure level of a route that could be enjoyed by more people, still into the art of placing protection. Those bolts should be chopped. It should be freed when the natural protection readily available on that climb is used.
If rappelling from the chains on the Cave Route side of the summit: (the first set encountered while on that route) thread your ropes through the higher rap ring on the left bolt to avoid a heinously difficult rope pull/stuck rope.