|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||David Broemel, Steve Jones, Bill Smith - 1970s|
|Submitted By:||saxfiend on Aug 6, 2007|
|Comments on Broemel's Route||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Decatur, GA
Aug 6, 2007
|The rock isn't as nice as on the other nearby classics, but a challenging, fun climb nevertheless. I was wishing for my #4 Camalot in the big crack down low. Tip: traversing to the crack system too low makes it a lot more work.|
By Joey Wolfe
Jul 15, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
a #4 does make the transition into the crack less mental.
There is a small crack a little higher that will take a blue alien if you don't have a #4.
Watch for the large flexing flake, before you exit the crack system for the face to the left, up high. Either bury one down low or as a buddy of mine does (i didn't) put a cam on both sides to pin it. This will make sense when you see it.