The bottom crux is thin fingers, but easier if you move left and work a sidepull on the left of the pillar. The mid section is a bit sandy. Most of the time your feet seem to be on the face and not in the crack. Someone looking for a short, fun, non-splitter crack will enjoy this climb and it's a good intro lead for newbie Indian Creek climbers.
On the left face of Charlie's Pillar climb a left, then right-leaning varied fingers-to-hands crack - ending at the same anchors for Charlie's Pillar. Easy to TR after doing Charlie's Pillar and a good quick warm up for the cliff.
Doubles .4-#2 Camalot - though it is short and you probably won't need all of them. #3 is optional.
Climber on Broadie Machine.
From: Concord, MA
Feb 21, 2007
For the record, this climb is not actually called "Brodie Machine." I was at the Optimator wall in nov 06, and a friend i was with sratched "Brodie Machine" into a rock.
Edit: sorry, what i meant to say was the plaque at the base is in fact a "retro plaque." As in, the name "brodie machine" was not given by the FA.
|By Paul Hunnicutt|
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2007
It looked exactly like a plaque, therefore I assumed it was the name of the climb. It also isn't in the guidebook and wasn't on MP yet. If anyone knows the "true" name of this climb please inform us. Why did he scratch Brodie Machine in a rock?
|By Josh Gross|
Apr 24, 2008
FA Josh Gross we climbed both the chimney and the short s splitter. and placed the anchor years ago.
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 24, 2008
So is this the same route already posted as Charlie's Pillar, or a variation? How do you want it named Josh?