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The Optimator
Routes Sorted
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar 
90 proof 
Anunnaki 
Baroque 
Beer Run 
Bow Flex 
Brodie Machine 
Casey's Route 
Charlie's Pillar 
Chick Flick 
Choss Eliminate 
Ditch 'em 
Double Bock 
Gunning For Gonzo 
Hayutake 
Hefe Weissen 
Jews On Crack 
Jive Crack 
Kitchen Sink 
Lady Pillar 
Long Island Iced Ted 
Miller Genuine Draft 
Mudslide 
Neat 
Optimator 
Pat's Blue Ribbon 
Ram Implosion Wing 
Road Soda 
Sardikar 
Season of the Worm, The 
Soul Fire 
St. Pauli Girl 
Two Scoops 
Unsorted Routes:

Brodie Machine 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,605
Submitted By: Paul Hunnicutt on Nov 27, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Brodie Machine follows the crack that starts finge...

Description 

The bottom crux is thin fingers, but easier if you move left and work a sidepull on the left of the pillar. The mid section is a bit sandy. Most of the time your feet seem to be on the face and not in the crack. Someone looking for a short, fun, non-splitter crack will enjoy this climb and it's a good intro lead for newbie Indian Creek climbers.


Location 

On the left face of Charlie's Pillar climb a left, then right-leaning varied fingers-to-hands crack - ending at the same anchors for Charlie's Pillar. Easy to TR after doing Charlie's Pillar and a good quick warm up for the cliff.


Protection 

Doubles .4-#2 Camalot - though it is short and you probably won't need all of them. #3 is optional.



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Climber on Broadie Machine.
Climber on Broadie Machine.
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By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Feb 21, 2007

For the record, this climb is not actually called "Brodie Machine." I was at the Optimator wall in nov 06, and a friend i was with sratched "Brodie Machine" into a rock.

Edit: sorry, what i meant to say was the plaque at the base is in fact a "retro plaque." As in, the name "brodie machine" was not given by the FA.

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2007

It looked exactly like a plaque, therefore I assumed it was the name of the climb. It also isn't in the guidebook and wasn't on MP yet. If anyone knows the "true" name of this climb please inform us. Why did he scratch Brodie Machine in a rock?

By Josh Gross
Apr 24, 2008

Charlies Pillar,
FA Josh Gross we climbed both the chimney and the short s splitter. and placed the anchor years ago.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 24, 2008

So is this the same route already posted as Charlie's Pillar, or a variation? How do you want it named Josh?