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Orange Crush
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Drillary Step, The S 
Dynosoar S 
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Original Orange Crush, The T 
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White Snake S 

British Airways 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Ward Smith 7/95
Page Views: 288
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Marco Lazure in the 11b portion of British Airways...

Description 

If Prime Climb is getting bland, add a little spice. British Airways Is a harder, more exposed finish to that popular route. Really fun moves on an amazing feature that ends about 100 ft off the ground.

A long reach will help you gain the arete then some technical foot work and picking the right holds out of the highly featured rock will help you make your way. Save a little juice for the last few feet where the holds get small and the sequence more tricky.

Like many of the routes in this area it is often wet :(

Location 

Start on Prime Climb then break left at the hanging block at about 2/3 height to climb a striking arete.

Protection 

The book says 13 bolts. I brought more than that (15 I think) and I ran out, having nothing for the anchor. Bring 17 I'd say including the anchor.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 30, 2013

Named British Airways as it was originally a project of a certain Brit who was moving away so suggested to Ward that he take it over. "All ready to go!" he said. Ward went up it trying for the onsite but once onto the flying arete found that the bolts were pulling out by hand. Apparently the holes weren't cleaned before installation and the dust had made a slippery slurry when mixed with the water that had seeped in (and maybe not even tightened). Luckily I was up top with a rope looking to set up a TR for another project, so I was able to help out and put him on belay from above. Needless to say, the bolts were all replaced.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 30, 2013

good story and great route!
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jun 23, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I confirm the count of draws you need for this route.
Lee is right, 17 in total if you put two at the anchor.
Such a great climb even if a little dirty.
What do you expect, it's wet half the year.
Jump on it if it's dry!