British Airways 5.11a R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Randy Vogel, Charles Cole, and Darryl Nakahira, 1982 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2005 |
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Another one of climbers on British Airways, Pope's...
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Description Located on the far right side of Echo Rock, this is the first route right of Pope's Crack and requires a bit of scrambling through talus to reach the base.
Start 15' right of Pope's Crack behind a clump of yuccas, and climb the left-facing flared corner with an intermittent crack/seam in it's back (5.10) to it's end - pro is decent but the 1st placement is quite high. Above, continue up a steep slab with two bolts that passes along the right edge of a small roof. The climbing in the upper section (5.11a) is characterized by thin edges that require both delicate footwork and thoughtful movement. A bolted anchor/rap will be found at the top to return you quickly to your pack.
A good route in a sheltered location that gets lots of sun for those cold and windy days. The somewhat runout nature of the route means it gets led infrequently, but a toprope is easily rigged by climbing Pope's Crack as the rappel for that route takes you right over this route. Three stars out of five.
Protection 2 bolts (3/8"), pro to 1.5" (mostly thin), bolted anchor/rap
Mony pulling the small roof on British Airways. su...
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BETA PHOTO: Pope's Crack Area
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Mony S. on British Airways
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Climber on British Airways. 2 climbers at the top...
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Nearing top of British Airways
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| Comments on British Airways |
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jul 16, 2002
| So named, because on the second ascent (done the day after the FA) a certain well-known British climber took a winger on the route. |
By Randy
Jan 18, 2003
rating: 5.11a
| Having lead this route on several occasions, I find the crux, both technical and mental to be above the last bolt where you have to get your feet high on some pretty greasy holds. BTW: this is where Jonny Woodward (being rather inattentively belayed by Maria Cranor-think large half-arc of slack) took the famous 35+ foot whipper. The name for the route became immediately obvious. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 5, 2004
rating: 5.11a
| The runout section at the bottom is considerably more easy than the top of the route, maybe 5.10a or b?. I TR'd it though. The 2 cruxes are the changing directions move above the 1st bolt and the last move on the high step. I did this move in quite could weather and would not have described it as 'greasy.' Josh 5.11a face climbing is challenging for me. I got on this route on TR expecting 11d as printed in the Vogel book and kept waiting for a crux. One never came. I lowered off shaking my head and told my partner it felt like 11a. Only upon cross-referencing the index did I descover that it was indeed a simple misprint. |
By Bo Johnston
Feb 6, 2005
| We top roped this route after climbing "Pope's Crack". The Vogel guide has it rated 5.11d but I'd side with the 11a rating; only for the fact that I was able to climb it! |
By Randy
Dec 3, 2005
rating: 5.11a
| Lead this route last weekend again. The rock on the lower section is quite solid (so many TR ascents) and it is a 3 of 5 star route (imsbo). At about 20+ feet up the botton section you can get an excellent 1 - 1.5 inch cam placement. Just below the 1st bolt are thin nut/cam placements. Still runnout at the beginning and the top is thin and greasy.
The rating in the old guide was a typo (it was originally rated 10d).
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By Jonathan Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Nov 18, 2011
rating: 5.11a R
| you can get a 1/2" cam in about 15+ feet up. |
By MikeP ROWCC
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.11a R
| I followed this one. Be solid climbing 5.10b to get to the first gear placement. Fun little step crossover above first bolt. Crux comes after the roof and last bolt. Two little smearing edges for your feet and thin finger tip holds. Moving off of those was tricky. |
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