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Bristol Cliffs, Vt

Original Post
Jsimon25 · · Bristol, Vt · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 0

Hey I was just wondering if anyone had any beta on bristol cliffs. I live near by and everytime I drive by I am unwilling to accept that no one has ever climbed it.

It is called Bristol Cliffs located on the south side of Deer Leap Mtn, not to be confused with the Deer Leap Mtn near Rutland...

So if anyone knows anything about climbing up there it would be greatly appreciated!

Jess

Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66
Jsimon25 wrote:Hey I was just wondering if anyone had any beta on bristol cliffs. I live near by and everytime I drive by I am unwilling to accept that no one has ever climbed it. It is called Bristol Cliffs located on the south side of Deer Leap Mtn, not to be confused with the Deer Leap Mtn near Rutland... So if anyone knows anything about climbing up there it would be greatly appreciated! Jess
I live just outside of Bristol. That cliff is called Deer Leap, which is indeed confusing given the other cliff of the same name on Sherburne Gap. "Bristol Cliffs" is the name usually used for the west facing crags on the western slope of the Bristol Cliffs Wilderness above Lower Notch Rd. (i.e., the popular ice crag).

In any case, there has been sporadic activity at the Bristol Deer Leap since the 70s. A walk along the base will reveal bits of ancient fixed gear on various lines. The rock is not especially inviting up close, and is very ledgy for the most part. What cracks exist are really, really sharp edged, and feel like you might loose fingers jamming them. There are a handful of lines perhaps worthy of repeating, including a fun aid route I did about 15 years ago that follows a thin seam out a large roof. There is also an excellent 2 pitch ice route that comes in occasionally. All in all, it's a cool place to explore / scramble around, but probably not worth the effort for the climbing.

Finally, it's usually closed for peregrine nesting until late summer.

Cheers,

Derek
Bristol · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

If you are interested in knowing more about Bristol VT, look no further than www.bristolvermontonline.com

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

about 1986 Charlie gray amd myself drove east through the notch and parked in a grassy spot accross from a field on the north side of the notch road. we hiked north along a ridge and got on a possibly north west faceing steep finger crack? 10ish? it was cold and november. some reason I think it was pretty tall? maybe 2 pitches? charlie brought me up and then we bailed before getting to the top. there was a stuck #1 friend in the crack.. and maybe even a pin?

Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66

Well that's intriguing, Nick! Your description sounds a lot like a line I know of at Deer Leap (the Bristol one) but I assume you're talking about hiking in to the Bristol Cliffs area from Bristol Notch Rd.? The NW aspect would explain why it's hidden from view...sounds like I have a recon mission in my future.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

This is super vauge? 30 years ago..... I think we turned on to bristol notch road from 116. when we got to the intersection where you would take a left to go ice climbing we went straight or right then straight. went up the hill a bit utill it opened up and parked at a grassy pull out? hiked north allong a ridge? i do not remember a verry long hike????? I do remember steep, fingery? and a mangled fixed #1 or 1.5 friend. I think I also remember something about a white church near where we parked????????

Kristen Fiore · · Burlington, VT · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 3,378

Is this Bristol Dear Leap? Look pretty decent to me...

google.com/maps/place/Brist…@44.1058921,-73.0545622,8a,45y/data=!3m8!1e2!3m6!1shttp:%2F%2Fwww.jandeproductions.com%2F1995%2FBCWAug1995C.jpg!2e7!3e27!6s%2F%2Flh3.googleusercontent.com%2Fproxy%2FQ1nxYKluiE6WxRP83TvAchr00Ww-NPOnGVnSxGfEhJWEWvbwD73ydCVq22CCj-e0qaQDKBh1zayqwIgO2E6A7DBcZtL9p9ii_D7p__wdgFO0mK4IhpH9z0iTN3zx81s-79FpkEa_Smp85582DAXIiwAxr-igmQ%3Dw203-h266!7i400!8i522!4m2!3m1!1s0x0000000000000000:0x91c3c8954af362e7!6m1!1e1

Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66

Yup, that's it Chris. Maybe worth a look, but the prospects are definitely more limited than they appear from the road or the map.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

what is the cliff on the south side of Rt 125 just before the top of the gap when you are headded west?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66
Marc801 wrote:http://www.rockandsnow.com/63250/Tough-Schist%3A-Rock-Climbing-in-Northern-Vermont/?gclid=Cj0KEQiAvJS3BRDd44fjndyii6MBEiQAN4EkPY7fqZaM2SCXok4JAxCbLpufgm8sA43i1L7VSHm0oRIaAloB8P8HAQ
Umm...yeah. I'm pretty familiar with that book. In fact enough so to know that none of the cliffs we're discussing are in it.

Nick, I don't know if that cliff off 125 has a name, but I've scoped it out. It's complete choss. It's a cool place to explore, but I didn't see any real climbing potential.
Kristen Fiore · · Burlington, VT · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 3,378

Tough Schist is exciting and then you realize it only has half of what is in VT. Then it gets even more exciting.

Nick Lovejoy · · Vermont · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

Hey Kris and Derek - just wondering if either of you guys ever got back to Deer Leap to check it out? We're always looking for new stuff to explore in the area!  Thanks

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

What is the story with the cliff in Fairlee?

(since we're talking vt)

june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 110

I hear that fairlee is very loose and not protectable, also  peregrines nesting.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

tried to access fairlee once and  had no luck. all private drives.It is also right on the freeway  so not appealing in that regard either. 

Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10
Derek Doucet wrote: rockandsnow.com/63250/Tough… Umm...yeah. I'm pretty familiar with that book. In fact enough so to know that none of the cliffs we're discussing are in it. Nick, I don't know if that cliff off 125 has a name, but I've scoped it out. It's complete choss. It's a cool place to explore, but I didn't see any real climbing potential.

If this is the cliff, really a steep slab, I'm thinking of, then I don't know I would call it choss. Went up once during deer season ('13?) to check it out and saw a couple of lines (at least) that I thought looked worthy and the rock was solid. About 15-20 min. from the road if you know the right way to go. Was going to go back, but shortly after left the Mad River Valley and wasn't worth that kind of trip to go back. The amusing part was when I get to this obscure cliff in the middle of the woods in VT I soon realize there is smoke--tobacco or other, it is VT--wafting out over the top of the center. I call up, 'Y'all deer hunters?' 

'Nope.'
'Climbers?'
'Yeah.'
What are the odds? 'Well,' I said, 'Guess the race is on.'
Or not.;
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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