Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Lower Mount Scott
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blank Check S 
Brirthday Boy T 
Brush Hog T 
Crack Pot T,TR 
Final Exit S 
Full Cavity Search T 
High Anxiety T 
Layaway Plan S 
Mr. Clean T 
Pablo T 
Repeat After Me S 
Sex Talk TR 
Slopey Slappy 
Starter Marriage T 
Stole Your Face S 
Tea Cup Arete T 
Teacup T 
Unsorted Routes:

Brirthday Boy 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown (Contact me if you know who did the first accent)
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 915
Submitted By: Daniel S on Mar 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Picture shows Birthday Boy (1), High Anxiety (2), ...

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

(Edited to reflect commentator views.) A clean, and very steep 5.6 crack/face climb using the crack for protection for the first 30 ft. The rock is solid "for first 30 ft"(with the exception of a hold 5 Ft off the deck) and protects easily for the first 30 ft. Not a great climb to learn Trad on even though it has a 5.6 rating. The easier (<5.5), but chossy dirty ledge climbing at the top is more difficult to protect. The crux is about 10 feet off the ground. Protect early to avoid sliding down the slab at the base. Note-one of the first holds starting out the climb is getting loose and may fall off soon. Use caution.

Location 

Climb the crack about 15 to the left of High Anxiety.

Protection 

Nut, hexes, and cams to 2-3 inches. Trad anchor (bring webbing approximately 10 Ft to sling boulder) or use High Anxiety anchors with some rope drag.


Comments on Brirthday Boy Add Comment
Show which comments
By MauryB
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 8, 2007

The route is neither great, nor clean, I'm not surprised it isn't a classic. Good climbing for about thirty feet, then it becomes a series of dirty ledges.
By Andy Chasteen
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Jan 28, 2008

I agree with you Murry of Furry-ness. Clean down low, then choss fest up top.
By Bracken
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 2, 2009

I'm with the other commenters on this one. Clean, fun, and takes gear nicely for the first 30 feet. After that, it's dirty, ledgy, and gear becomes a bit more challenging. A #2 Camalot was nice in the undercling near the top. I have to disagree that it's a good route for a beginner to learn on.
By NoseyTim
Jun 20, 2016

Not great for a first trad lead. Done it a couple of times and most often I found myself running it out because there wasn't great placements after the first half of the route. Try Great Expectations on Elk Slab for a first trad lead. Overall, it is a decent route. I use a number 7&8 BD hex (or 12 & 13 DMM Walnut) with a #2 cam to set up an anchor. I take youth kids out to climb this one and have found that if you are short the bottom 20 feet is much harder than 5.6. My junior high students despise this route while my high school kids enjoy it.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!