Brinton's Buttress Rock Climbing
Unknown climber on the East Bluff, April 18, 2009....
Brinton's Buttress could be considered the crown jewel of the East Rampart. The buttress contains many high-quality climbs and is perhaps the most heavily visited formation on the East Bluff. Rubberman (5.13b), arguably the hardest climb at the Lake is located at the eastern end of the buttress, Brinton's Crack (5.6) is found on its southern face, and Berkeley (5.6) sits amongst other great climbs on the west face.
To find Brinton's Buttress hike up the CCC trail, turn left at The Monster and climb up rock steps through the talus field until you reach Pedestal Buttress. To access the top of Brinton's Buttress turn right and hike around the east end of the East Rampart wall. Turn back to the west and hike along the top of the cliff for 250 feet. To access the bottom of Brinton's Buttress turn left at Pedestal Buttress and hike on the climber's Trail for about 150 feet until you reach Brinton's Buttress.
Weather station 3.7 miles from here
17 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Brinton's Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Brinton's Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Brinton's Buttress:
Berkeley 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Chicago 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R Trad, TR, 60'
Golf Road 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Featured Route For Brinton's Buttress
Stool Pigeon 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
: Devil's Lake
: ... : Brinton's Buttress
Stool Pidgeon climbs the face just to the left of the buttress corner. Initial unprotected 20 feet of 5.9 (bad fall potential) leads to a crack system with very cool and varied 5.8 climbing. Stuff pro in the last horizontal seam and commit to a 5.11 face with tricky moves and a 30 foot fall potential. Long and airy route. The 2nd edition of Swartling's "Climber's guide to Devil's Lake" rates the route 5.11b, which I think is correct. The latest 3rd edition...[more] Browse More Classics in WI
By Evan Marsh
From: Cedar Falls, IA
Aug 17, 2015
Safety Alert! There is a very active underground BEE HIVE on the right side of the climber's trail as you approach Gill's Buttress from the east. Be cautious, my friend was stung by one when we first got there.