Because this route is not bolted, and there are no anchors at the top, it does not get climbed that often.
To set up the TR, build an anchor with trad gear at the top. There are two good boulders you can sling as well. Drop the anchors that attach to the rope through the obvious "V" in the rock.
The bottom of the route has several different paths. One climbs out over a bulge and then moves right into a little dihedral. The next follows the dihedral (to the right of the bulge) from the ground up.
Then it is a little slabby up to the headwall which overhangs. The overhanging part is the crux. There are a couple of cool moves up to some big holds. There is a nice gaston in the middle. Moving left makes it a bit easier.
This route is just to the right of Cubscout Corner on the far left hand side of the wall. It is also just to the left of Midnight Cowboy and Mr. Interruptus. The overhang at the top of the wall with the V shaped notch at the very top is the distinguishing mark.
No pro. build an anchor on top and set up the top rope.
Jul 10, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This route has now been bolted and has two nice shiny chains on top. Coming up to the headwall, the bolts veer to climber's right where you can jug-haul on the arete to the right of the last bolt. This variation is not a 5.10. It would be if one were to head more directly to the chains or followed the crack system at climber's left. Jeff can clarify further.
Fun climb. Careful not to z-clip when you're at the chains after the last bolt.
|By Kat Johnson|
Jun 14, 2014
Also known as "the route we climb when someone has already claimed Cub Scout Corner." Fun jug haul up until the last ten feet. Can't finish it, have to cheat and follow the ledge to the right. Fun route to learn to lead on though.
| || Tricky top half. |