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South Peak - West Face
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Bring on the Nubiles T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Bring on the Nubiles 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Vera & Stephens
Page Views: 5,839
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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The Nubiles fin.

Description 

Bring on the Nubiles is an awesomely exposed arete climb. It is best approached via the first pitch of West Pole, but it does have it's own first pitch which is quite run out.

P1: For this pitch begin just left of the tree at the start of West Pole and head up just right of the arete to a belay stance.

P2: Get ready! Climb straight up on thin cracks to a stance on a pedestal. From here reach up to a good horizontal and wander up near the arete to the top. Gear is sporadic - take what you can get and savor the exposure!

Protection 

Standard rack. Emphasis on finger-size cams.


Photos of Bring on the Nubiles Slideshow Add Photo
Licheny but super fun
Licheny but super fun

Comments on Bring on the Nubiles Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 30, 2015
By t.ferguson
Jun 11, 2012

I found this climb to be well worth it. We did the first pitch which was extremely fun climbing, though covered in lichens and very uneasy (lots of loose rock and bad placements). The second pitch was stellar as well - better quality rock but more run out. Overall would highly recommend. Give this route some love! It deserves it.
By Kirby
From: DC
Aug 19, 2013

Great route. There is a giant death block on the first pitch, which is one of the few chunks of that pitch that isn't covered in lichen. I drew a bunch of x's on it. Don't pull it out, because it would probably kill your belayer, then anyone else waiting for old man's route 200 feet below.

The last pitch is so very nice. Crux is much easier if you are tall.

Would be 4 stars if not for the dirtiness of the first pitch (first being 80 feet off the ground)
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

I have to disagree with the other commenters on this climb on a couple points. First of all, the original submitter didn't even climb the first pitch...why submit the description then? Ugh.

P1: Start directly up from the two-bolt anchor shared with West Pole. Move up the corner/arete, passing some good stances and decent gear placements. Move back right onto the face, passing an obvious loose block (X marked on it) to some right-leaning, shallow cracks (offset cams!). Move up and gain better cracks that lead up to the small inverted V overhang. Place some bomber gear then pull the overhang on the left and continue up to the Thais Escape Ledge (#2 or #3 cam helpful for belay).

There's not as much loose rock as you might think on P1(thanks for the mark on the block Kirby!) and it's not that runout if you place some small gear. Take Offset Mastercams or similar gear and you'll be fine; they will go in the flaring cracks where nothing else will go. This makes the pitch PG. I think more people are doing this pitch so it's getting cleaner. It's a quality pitch with great exposure and some really fun moves...reasonable at 5.8.

The final pitch is spectacular. I don't know why Tess thinks this was more runout...you could probably aid this pitch. Small cams and nuts, but a #2 cam is really handy above the pedestal. I would take doubles of yellow and blue mastercams or similar gear.

All-in-all this is a 4-star route. Stellar positioning, great exposure and fun, strenuous-at-times moves on a beautiful steep face. This epitomizes Seneca climbing at it's best.
By Mark Maier
Oct 26, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I think the first pitch is quite good, and would be better if it was climbed enough to clear off the lichen. It's not a really serious problem, but less lichen would be nicer.

I don't see this route as PG13. It's not trivial to protect. Small cams, probably offsets like Andy says, are necessary to avoid some runouts. The stances are not always great. But, with the right gear and reasonable ability to place it I don't see there being much danger.

And it is really in a spectacular spot with a great variety of climbing. Face moves, finger locks, even the occasional hand jam.
By Kevin Stephens
Jun 25, 2015

I must take exception to the comment left by Andy Weinmann of Alexandria, who stated with some conviction the the original summiteers of "bring on the Nubiles" did not do the first pitch. As one of those first ascentionists, I can assure Mr. Weinmann that we did indeed climb both pitches on the first ascent of the route. The first pitch was flawlessly lead by my partner Hernado Vera on that fall day in 1985. I would suggest that Mr. Weinmann would do well to have some knowledge about his subject matter.
By Jake Jones
Administrator
From: Richmond, VA
Jun 26, 2015

Kevin,

Andy didn't say "summiteers" he said "submitter". The submitter is Josh Janes, not you and the others in the first ascent party. Please read his comment again. I don't know Andy personally, but he has always seemed to be a reasonable guy, and has great reverence and respect for the areas he climbs in and the FAists that put up bold routes like this one.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Jun 30, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Jake,

Thanks very much for backing me up as I did indeed type "submitter". My comments were specifically designed to not discourage people from giving pitch one a "go" as it was originally climbed. My usual style is to first climb routes as they were originally done and then go back later to do other variations and link ups...it's more pure that way in my opinion.

Kevin, I don't know you from anyone else, but I encourage you to read comments a little more closely next time.

If you like, either of you can ask around for me at the Gendarme or Tom's some weekend and we'll throw back a few brews.

-Andy
By Josh Janes
Jun 30, 2015

"First of all, the original submitter didn't even climb the first pitch...why submit the description then? Ugh."

Ugh? Ugh: Typical east coast squabbling. I guess when you only have a tiny bit of scrappy rock to play on you feel a compulsion to argue about a 5' variation to the first pitch (and it's the approach pitch!) of a two pitch 5.9. Hey, I can't really fault you. But nice job giving the blow-by-blow description Andy - apologies if my submission was misleading or not detailed enough for your taste. Sounds like you still managed to have fun on the route.
By Jake Jones
Administrator
From: Richmond, VA
Jul 1, 2015

I'm sure you're all good guys and good climbers. It's easy to misconstrue typed text and meaning/motivation behind it. Can't really find fault with anyone that wants accurate route info. Josh, thanks for posting it up in the first place. I'd be happy to knock a few back on Tom's deck with any of you any day.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Jul 9, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Get off my lawn! ;-)
By Josh Janes
Jul 9, 2015

Bad route descriptions? NIMBY! :)
By Jeff McLeod
3 days ago
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Detailed gear beta ahead.

Second pitch of this route is about as good as any exposed face climb I've done anywhere. It is also most definitely PG13. A fall during the crux hand traverse would be dangerous, especially if the microcam you hopefully placed in the tips crack blows, because there is a small outcropping/ledge not too far below that you could hit.
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