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Bring in the Fembots 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Monica Buhler, Dave Horn
Page Views: 1,257
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 21, 2010
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Bring in the Fembots

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Description 

Although a bit easier than its well bolted neighbor to its right, with a few runout sections and a bit tricky pro, Bring in the Fembots is often top roped after leading its neighbor. I personally enjoy leading the more thought provoking Bring in the Fembots over the clip up Machine Gun Jubblies. A second pitch, 10b, can be done after leading either first pitch.

Start just left of Machine Gun Jubblies. Climb up the face to a seam that accepts small offset stoppers. Climb up a few moves to a bolt and continue up to another bolt. Move left and up a ways to a small leftfacing corner. You can get a small stopper here and then a cam a foot or two higher( backups are nice). follow the corner up a bit then step right and continue up to a bolt. Cilmb past the bolt to a ledge where you move right to another leftfacing corner. Nice to get a small nut or two in the seam in the corner. Follow the corner up to a nice finger crack. Follow this crack up and over a small roof then continue up to a bolted anchor with chains.


Location 

The route starts off a grassy ledge, between crossover and Eagles Eyrie(see Reid guide).


Protection 

3 bolts and a light rack, mostly finger size and smaller cams and stoppers(HB offset nuts, 2or3 #6 and 2 #7s are nice to have) to a bolted belay/rap station

(Most folks miss the seam that takes small stoppers(offsets nice)before the first piece about 15' up.)

The route was originally done without the first 2 bolts that were added latter by the first ascent party.



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By mucci
From: sf ca
Mar 11, 2010

TR'd from the fellow 5.8, A thin mixed route with small gear, a few sporty sections, but incredible friction face with discontinous crack systems.

By Bonesaw
From: CA
Nov 27, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

Nice route Jeff. Thought provoking lead. Great climbing.

By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Monica Buhler, Dave Horn, 1995?

By spyork
From: Fremont, CA
Feb 8, 2012

This lead made me think carefully about getting pro when I could.