Bring in the Fembots  5.8-

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet Consensus:  5.8- [details] FA:  Jeff Scheuerell, Monica Buhler, Dave Horn Submitted By:  Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 21, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Bring in the Fembots

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Although a bit easier than its well bolted neighbor to its right, with a few runout sections and a bit tricky pro, Bring in the Fembots is often top roped after leading its neighbor. I personally enjoy leading the more thought provoking Bring in the Fembots over the clip up Machine Gun Jubblies. A second pitch, 10b, can be done after leading either first pitch.

Start just left of Machine Gun Jubblies. Climb up the face to a seam that accepts small offset stoppers. Climb up a few moves to a bolt and continue up to another bolt. Move left and up a ways to a small leftfacing corner. You can get a small stopper here and then a cam a foot or two higher( backups are nice). follow the corner up a bit then step right and continue up to a bolt. Cilmb past the bolt to a ledge where you move right to another leftfacing corner. Nice to get a small nut or two in the seam in the corner. Follow the corner up to a nice finger crack. Follow this crack up and over a small roof then continue up to a bolted anchor with chains.

Location 

The route starts off a grassy ledge, between crossover and Eagles Eyrie(see Reid guide).

Protection 

3 bolts and a light rack, mostly finger size and smaller cams and stoppers(HB offset nuts, 2or3 #6 and 2 #7s are nice to have) to a bolted belay/rap station

(Most folks miss the seam that takes small stoppers(offsets nice)before the first piece about 15' up.)

The route was originally done without the first 2 bolts that were added latter by the first ascent party.