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Brighter Side Of Darkness 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: EFR,JSt,'06
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter, Spring, Fall
Page Views: 867
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Feb 26, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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It's not too long but you are fighting most of the...

Description 

Hard start traverses into seam and crack Stick clip the first bolt or have good spotters. To reach this route and Angus Kong 10- Start at The Griddle and hike left and up about 150 feet to cairn. The route is on the short cliff about 40 feet right above you.


Protection 

Bolts



Photos of Brighter Side Of Darkness Slideshow Add Photo
2nd bolt - photo by Pete Piek
2nd bolt - photo by Pete Piek
The Viking on the opening crux moves.  Stick clip the first bolt or have good spotters.  Note the angle of the wall in the background.  Red Dwarf 5.12 trad and Viking Soared 5.11 trad climb.
The Viking on the opening crux moves. Stick clip ...
Comments on Brighter Side Of Darkness Add Comment
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By Jimbo
May 2, 2007

I did this route again a couple of weeks ago. Since we cleaned up the lower traverse a bit more it seems easier than 12a. It's still a fun route with deceptively hard climbing up high.

By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Apr 14, 2008

I like bolt's 3ft apart or closer. That way I can yard my way through all the crux's when I get my old ass out climbing again.

By Mark and Stacy Egan
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

If this climb goes at 11+ I must have botched the crux sequence. Otherwise, I would downgrade Holy Moley to 11b/c (having just been on it a couple weeks ago).
--Mark

By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 16, 2009

Thanks Mark, we are still looking for more input on the grade. Now give it a star or a bomb or what ever you think it deserves. Thanks.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jan 4, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

this can go on gear for sure.

the first piece (a jug/slot) isn't until around the 3rd bolt (20ft??), but the landing is flat and big (note: it could easily take a crash pad). furthermore, the next 20ft offer tons of good gear opportunities, ie. orange/yellow tcu's and nuts. only the last 10 ft would be hard to protect. but that section's only 5.8.

By Jimbo
Feb 12, 2010

The name sort of alludes to the fact that the top half would go on gear. So no great insight there.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Feb 17, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

got it. many thanks, jimbo.

By Jimbo
Mar 5, 2010

No worries Randy. Let us know if you do this on gear. It would be a proud send, crash pads or not.