Brighter Side Of Darkness 5.11+
| 810 page views Good page? (1 like)  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | EFR,JSt,'06 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Winter, Spring, Fall |
| Submitted By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Feb 26, 2006 |
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The Viking on the opening crux moves. Stick clip ...
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Description Hard start traverses into seam and crack Stick clip the first bolt or have good spotters. To reach this route and Angus Kong 10- Start at The Griddle and hike left and up about 150 feet to cairn. The route is on the short cliff about 40 feet right above you.
Protection Bolts
It's not too long but you are fighting most of the...
| 2nd bolt - photo by Pete Piek
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| Comments on Brighter Side Of Darkness |
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By Jimbo May 2, 2007
| I did this route again a couple of weeks ago. Since we cleaned up the lower traverse a bit more it seems easier than 12a. It's still a fun route with deceptively hard climbing up high. |
By A.P.T. From: Truckee,Ca Apr 14, 2008
| I like bolt's 3ft apart or closer. That way I can yard my way through all the crux's when I get my old ass out climbing again. |
By Mark and Stacy Egan Nov 16, 2009 rating: 5.12-
| If this climb goes at 11+ I must have botched the crux sequence. Otherwise, I would downgrade Holy Moley to 11b/c (having just been on it a couple weeks ago). --Mark |
By 1Eric Rhicard Nov 16, 2009
| Thanks Mark, we are still looking for more input on the grade. Now give it a star or a bomb or what ever you think it deserves. Thanks. |
By randy baum From: Minneapolis, MN Jan 4, 2010 rating: 5.11+
| this can go on gear for sure. the first piece (a jug/slot) isn't until around the 3rd bolt (20ft??), but the landing is flat and big (note: it could easily take a crash pad). furthermore, the next 20ft offer tons of good gear opportunities, ie. orange/yellow tcu's and nuts. only the last 10 ft would be hard to protect. but that section's only 5.8. |
By Jimbo Feb 12, 2010
| The name sort of alludes to the fact that the top half would go on gear. So no great insight there. |
By randy baum From: Minneapolis, MN Feb 17, 2010 rating: 5.11+
| got it. many thanks, jimbo. |
By Jimbo Mar 5, 2010
| No worries Randy. Let us know if you do this on gear. It would be a proud send, crash pads or not. |
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