The crux is in an open dihedral about 25' below the top. There are small holds for hands and feet. It is three moves to clear the crux.
The route is located about 30' to the left of Scars and Tripes forever.
Top rope anchor - It can be led with standard rack.
BETA PHOTO: Bridges over Troubled Water Anchor
Sam coming into the final crux.
|By Bryan Karban|
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
This is a great, long route. The start is high quality 5.8 to 5.9 climbing with really pleasant liebacking up some huge flakes. I found that the route has two distinct cruxes. The first involves some creative offwidth climbing through a very narrow dihedral. The second is the last 15 feet of the route and requires a few bouldery moves using the crack splitting the middle of a beautiful dihedral and an arete off to the right with precise footwork.
For the lead, I broke the route into two pitches after running out of gear to protect the final crux. I belayed at the base of the offwidth leading to the final crux.
Protection: Doubles of mid-range cams. A #4 is helpful. Other than that, a standard rack is sufficient. Off-width pro is not necessary.
|By Travis Hibbard|
May 21, 2012
Doesn't the pic of "Sam" in the final dihedral look a whole heck of a lot like the end of Scars and Tripes?
|By Kris Gorny|
May 21, 2012
I agree, Bryan your description sounds awful like Scars and Tripes and the picture looks like the top of Scars and Tripes as well (compare the boulders at the bottom). Travis -- thanks for pointing this out.
|By Mike Wallraff|
From: My Van
Jul 9, 2012
Climbed it this weekend. I agree with Travis and Kris about the picture and description on Scars and Tripes(a classic IMO).
Anyway to the dirt. This route is not 180 ft. Or atleast I highly recommend not climbing the first 80 ft. Absolute choss. Was ripping things off above and below me as I climbed.
The top 100 ft are definately worth doing and clean. The final dihedral is a doozy.
Lower down 100 ft (+/-) to the obvious ledge and start there.