||Ice, 5 pitches, 800', Grade III
|Consensus: ||WI4+ [details]|
|FA: ||Jennings, Moore, & Tobin 12/1977|
|Season: ||Late Fall through Spring|
|Page Views: ||1,145|
|Submitted By: ||Richard Shore on Mar 5, 2013|
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Climbers on the crux "Killer Pillar" of ...
A classic long ice line with many steep pillars separated by easier low-angle snow ramps. Traditionally done in 5 pitches, but can be done in 4 with 70M ropes.
P1 - WI3-3+, up to a bolted belay/rap station in a cave on the left side of the flow.
P2 - WI4, traverse out right from the cave and up two steep sections of ice separated by a small ramp. Another easy ramp leads up and left to another cave belay from screws.
P3 - WI5, "The Killer Pillar." Traverse out right from the cave and up a sustained 30+M long pillar of 80-90 degree ice. Belay from alders or screws somewhere on the easy snow ramp above.
"P4" - (optional) move belay to start of final ice pitch.
P5 - WI3, up and right through weaknesses to the rim of the canyon. Belay from trees.
The massive flow just a few hundred yards left of Greensteps, marked by a highway sign. Can't miss it. Approach from a large pullouton the west side of the road, ~ 2 minutes walk (assuming the Lowe River is frozen). Rappel from trees, v-threads, and finally a bolted anchor back to the base.
Many screws, v-thread materials, 3-bolt anchor/rap at top of P1, tree belay/rap at top of route.
BETA PHOTO: JR on the Killer Pillar
BETA PHOTO: A partner at the base for scale reference
BETA PHOTO: Myself starting P2
BETA PHOTO: Myself on P1 of Bridalveil falls. 03/30/2013
BETA PHOTO: JR in the Bridalveil cave
Famous Bridalveil falls cave.
The laidies are rocking the first pitch of Bridal ...
From: Flagstaff, Az
Mar 6, 2013
Sweet! Thanks for posting these up, it's about time. The belay cave on P.1 is awesome. 800' ice line with a 5 minute approach, this place is stacked! Hopefully with time there can be a decent amount of information on the Valdez climbs, although alaskaiceclimbing.com already has a lot. For more information check out Blue Ice, Black Gold which can be found at the library. Remember, ice climbing is only an activity for when the snow conditions are bad.
Mar 27, 2015