||Ice, 5 pitches, 800', Grade III
|Consensus: ||WI5- [details]|
|FA: ||Jennings, Moore, & Tobin 12/1977|
|Season: ||Late Fall through Spring|
|Page Views: ||519|
|Submitted By: ||Richard Shore on Mar 5, 2013|
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Climbers on the crux "Killer Pillar" of Bridalveil...
A classic long ice line with many steep pillars separated by easier low-angle snow ramps. Traditionally done in 5 pitches, but can be done in 4 with 70M ropes.
P1 - WI3-3+, up to a bolted belay/rap station in a cave on the left side of the flow.
P2 - WI4, traverse out right from the cave and up two steep sections of ice separated by a small ramp. Another easy ramp leads up and left to another cave belay from screws.
P3 - WI5, "The Killer Pillar." Traverse out right from the cave and up a sustained 30+M long pillar of 80-90 degree ice. Belay from alders or screws somewhere on the easy snow ramp above.
"P4" - (optional) move belay to start of final ice pitch.
P5 - WI3, up and right through weaknesses to the rim of the canyon. Belay from trees.
The massive flow just a few hundred yards left of Greensteps, marked by a highway sign. Can't miss it. Approach from a large pullouton the west side of the road, ~ 2 minutes walk (assuming the Lowe River is frozen). Rappel from trees, v-threads, and finally a bolted anchor back to the base.
Many screws, v-thread materials, 3-bolt anchor/rap at top of P1, tree belay/rap at top of route.
BETA PHOTO: JR on the Killer Pillar
Bridalveil Falls 3/3/13
Feu de Glace
BETA PHOTO: A partner at the base for scale reference
BETA PHOTO: Myself starting P2
BETA PHOTO: Myself on P1 of Bridalveil falls. 03/30/2013
BETA PHOTO: JR in the Bridalveil cave
Famous Bridalveil falls cave.
The laidies are rocking the first pitch of Bridal ...
From: Flagstaff, Az
Mar 6, 2013
Sweet! Thanks for posting these up, it's about time. The belay cave on P.1 is awesome. 800' ice line with a 5 minute approach, this place is stacked! Hopefully with time there can be a decent amount of information on the Valdez climbs, although alaskaiceclimbing.com already has a lot. For more information check out Blue Ice, Black Gold which can be found at the library. Remember, ice climbing is only an activity for when the snow conditions are bad.