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|Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
So, on a random lark, I decided I wanted to check out the rock of the Petit Bastille. It was largely what I thought it would be: loose, crusty, and not too aesthetic.Specifically, for Bricklayer's Spite, [start] on a large boulder up the talus field, right off the Fowler Trail. Head up 5.5 ground with little protection until a chance comes to cut left and get into a dark band. Here, it gets steep, and you'll find your first good pro. Head left again to gain a [left]-angling crack with (at the time of this writing) a fixed nut. Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse right a bit and disappear into a chimney. At this point, you have 2 options: 1) stay on the face and work to the summit, left, or 2)what I call "Golpher's Delight", climb further into the chimney and squeeze out right through boulders to the summit. This variation is actually quite fun, and saved the climb for me.
No stars here, but if Calypso
looks like the DMV at 3:30...consider Bricklayer's Spite. (Or just go for a beer.)
The summit reqires no real anchor. You can belay, as for Reggae
, "al [cheval]"...or something like that. I'm not French.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 25, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
AS luck would have it, I just did Bricklayer's Spite last Sunday night, on a lark. Problem is I did a completely different route than described here. I read the Rossiter description as having started from the roadcut, maybe 5-6 meters South of where the wall runs uphill. I followed a crack & right facing dihedral up to where I tended right into a slot/chimney and went through the right hand arete burried in it to the top.
The route was a bomb and would be a little sandbagged for 5.6. The available gear was also somewhat poor in sections.