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Claim Jumper Wall
Routes Sorted
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Better Luck Next Time S 
Blue Sky Mine S 
Bobbing for Ear Snax  T 
Brewed Awakening T 
Bum Steer S 
Bye Chimney T 
Chaps My Hide S 
Claim Jumper S 
Colonial Ear Wax T 
Coyotes in the Henhouse S 
Dos Dose T 
Green Goblin T 
Hangin' Judge, The S 
Lady Luck S 
Lucky Cuss S 
Mad Season S 
Necktie Party S 
One Armed Bandit S 
Papper, The S 
Public Hanging S 

Brewed Awakening 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Chuck Scott, May 2001
Page Views: 1,134
Submitted By: C Miller on May 20, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.

Description 

This seldom done but quality line climbs difficult thin face past three bolts (crux) into the obvious finger/hand crack just left of Coyotes in the Henhouse. Three-quarters of the way up the pitch, the crack is a bit broken and another bolt will be found before the climb steepens at the top for the juggy finish.

The name comes from a local coffee house in Big Bear City - if not properly warmed up this climb may indeed be just as advertised.

Protection 

4 bolts, gear to 2.5", bolted anchor (shared with Coyotes In The Henhouse)


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By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 23, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Very fun and worthy route, thin and hard down low, reachy, crimpy 5.11. We brought a bouldering pad, which was more comfortable to fall on while working the crux than the rope. The anchors are off to the side, which makes this route a pain to clean.
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 17, 2012

Do it. The crux move is super well protected and the rest is in the 5.10 range. The crack protects great with mostly small cams but some medium as well.
By Brian Chastain
Sep 29, 2014

I am a bit torn on grading this. I am not sure if my height (5'8") or not knowing how this was suppose to be started played a roll in the difficulty of this start. I tried climbing directly to the bolt and that was super hard. I made the clip on a small shitty gaston then down climbed to rethink this. Then I ended up going up right of the bolt on crimps; start match, one long left hand move up and then right to a good size hold which made it easy to gain the big flake.

I felt that this one and a half moves were harder than any one move of the 11d next Coyotes in the Hen House. I do feel the 11d was harder because of a series of difficult moves though.

The upper portion of Brewed Awakening was okay. Protects well, has a little hollow and loose stuff around the crack. Used a #2, 1, .4 and .3. Couple of good spots for nuts if you want to use them. Sorry for the mega spray down, but I just had a bitch on the start for 11b. Once I got it after 5 minutes of working it, it was no thing.
By Jason Kim
From: Encinitas, CA
Oct 12, 2014

Was also stumped on the start (11b?!) but then figured it out by using a decent right crimp as the starting hold to approach the first bolt. Very thin set of opening moves, regardless. After gaining the flake, it eases way off and you'll get a nice stance to get a couple of pieces in, when you reach the crack. I sewed it up, using everything from a blue Alien to a gold Camalot. Protects very well, and definitely worth doing if you brought your rack. As mentioned, cleaning is a pain.