|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Chris Miller & Chuck Scott, May 2001|
|Submitted By:||C Miller on May 20, 2006|
|Comments on Brewed Awakening||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 23, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|Very fun and worthy route, thin and hard down low, reachy, crimpy 5.11. We brought a bouldering pad, which was more comfortable to fall on while working the crux than the rope. The anchors are off to the side, which makes this route a pain to clean.|
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 17, 2012
|Do it. The crux move is super well protected and the rest is in the 5.10 range. The crack protects great with mostly small cams but some medium as well.|
By Brian Chastain
Sep 29, 2014
I am a bit torn on grading this. I am not sure if my height (5'8") or not knowing how this was suppose to be started played a roll in the difficulty of this start. I tried climbing directly to the bolt and that was super hard. I made the clip on a small shitty gaston then down climbed to rethink this. Then I ended up going up right of the bolt on crimps; start match, one long left hand move up and then right to a good size hold which made it easy to gain the big flake.
I felt that this one and a half moves were harder than any one move of the 11d next Coyotes in the Hen House. I do feel the 11d was harder because of a series of difficult moves though.
The upper portion of Brewed Awakening was okay. Protects well, has a little hollow and loose stuff around the crack. Used a #2, 1, .4 and .3. Couple of good spots for nuts if you want to use them. Sorry for the mega spray down, but I just had a bitch on the start for 11b. Once I got it after 5 minutes of working it, it was no thing.
By Jason Kim
From: Encinitas, CA
Oct 12, 2014
|Was also stumped on the start (11b?!) but then figured it out by using a decent right crimp as the starting hold to approach the first bolt. Very thin set of opening moves, regardless. After gaining the flake, it eases way off and you'll get a nice stance to get a couple of pieces in, when you reach the crack. I sewed it up, using everything from a blue Alien to a gold Camalot. Protects very well, and definitely worth doing if you brought your rack. As mentioned, cleaning is a pain.|