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Tony Bubb gets started up on Brevitata (5.11) on U...
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What a great finish to Rincon
! Take Rincon
(5.11a) to Bat's Ass Dihedral
(5.11a) to Bevitata (5.11a). Enough hard dihedral for you?
This climb is a definite 2* and protects well enough and has good rests to be a great on-sight attempt for people just at this grade, provided their gear-placing skills are descent. The crux is burley, but it's all there and is not sustained/mental. It is also under-climbed, so don't expect a line for it.
To get to Brevitata, climb Rincon, then climb Bat's Ass Dihedral
, Kangaroo Tail
, Cuban Bluegrass
, or Ventura Highway
to reach the next ledge up. As an option, you may also walk West from the top of P3 of Rincon
, then scramble up to approach the base of this right-facing, ever-steepening dihedral, the dark pin is difficult to see from below. The rock on the climb itself is as good as it gets and STICKY. The climb overall starts as a low-angle, right-facing open book corner. In a parabolic curve, the angle of the corner goes from perhaps a 75 degree slab to a 15 or 20 degree overhang. The crux being at the steepest part of the overhang, where a fixed pin gives mental assistance and confidence to the leader.Scramble to the bottom of the corner and set a good belay off of some hand-sized cams, then climb up on stoppers and small cams if desired, to where the corner is vertical- set some tiny nuts and climb up to an under-cling and clip the pin. Back up the pin later by putting the 1.5" TCU in the under-cling in the corner just before you leave it for the crux. Do the gut-buster crux off of some small feet (smears) and a weird finger-lock to reach up and left to a great under-cling on the steep face to the left... now do the gut-buster crux on stems or smears for feet to hit the thank-god hold and easier ground and gear. Height should not be a factor, as all of the wall offers dimples/pimples for feet... none of them good enough to compromise ideal body position for. You can belay from above on a large, solid tree.
To descend, scramble down just to the West and intersect the trail as from 'Over The Hill
' after a little loose rock. Alternatively, one could add an anchor of webbing rings up here and save a little excitement. Remember that there are hordes of climbers below, and try not to knock off rocks.
A set of TCUs, particularly including a 1.5" piece, and a set of stoppers including RPs, BD copper-steels or HB anchors. A "pretty good" pin is at the crux. The pin is a 17 year old 2/3-driven Lost Arrow. It seems solid.The 5.10 moves are on thin gear (tiny brass/steel)and a 1.5" HB 3-cam was placed 2' below the pin (solid) but was pretty strenuous to place and clip and difficult to arrange such that it did not effect a crux hold.
Tony Bubb half way up the short but fun 'Brevitata...
By david goldstein
Jul 7, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
TB: even though I don't always agree with your evaluations, I'm grateful that you're putting out beta on these obscure mystery climbs.
30' pitch, one move crux.
Easy for the grade, even at 11a. Did this as a follow on to Rincon. I (short) found this easier than Rincon's curx; my partner (tall) found them about the same.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2003
I did it without knowing what it was. When my partner asked as I set the anchor, I answered "between hard 5.10 and easy 5.11". So I guess we agree on the grade. I've been taking a whole lot of shit lately for sandbagging so when Jo couldn't do the moves (she is short, and she had just done Rincon) I decided I'd post it as the book rates it. So what do I honestly think? 5.11a, tops. I was trying to be fair though. Consider the 5.11c I gave it as Rossiter's opinion. I think it's less technical than Rincon, but a whole lot more physical.
As for the stars, I liked it enough to go back to it next time I am there. That's what 2 stars means on this site. If you wouldn't repeat it, but didn't mind having done it, that's 1 star on this site, and you're entitled to your opinion.