|83 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 660 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.10c [details]|
|FA: ||Yves and Claude Remy, 1994|
|Submitted By: ||crastalva on Jul 21, 2011|
Very interesting climbing, not only on slab as it appears from below. Check Jürg von Känel's guidebook "Plaisir West"
It's the northernmost route, direct on the rim
Supplement the bolts with some medium sized Camelots. Run out in pitch 3
Pitch 3: Some run out on slab. Crux is the crack r...
|By Colin Winter|
Dec 27, 2011
We found the crux of the route to be the slab below the bulge, not the bulge itself, on pitch four.
For the final pitch, where the topo calls for a friend 1.5 placement in a pocket, you want to have exactly that - we had a yellow omegapac and it did not work, which made things a bit more exciting.