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Routes in The Northeastern Crags
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Arborist Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beanstalk Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Big Red Shoes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bigfoot was Here T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Br'er Rabbit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chess With Justin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Don't Tell Tom aka Et By a Bear T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Encour du Bottom feeder T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Farewell Ronald McDonald T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Happy Camper T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jack Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jolly Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Magic Beans T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mountain Minor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pick a Card T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shapeshifter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sojourn of Arjuna T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Squeeze Box T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Steady Yeti T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Thin Slice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wiessner Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Yeti Beats T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | Mark Sprague, Jason Milford 10/16/2013 |
| Page Views: | 1,914 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | M Sprague on Oct 17, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Please don't throw me into that chimney! This one is a bit hidden and you can't see much of the great climbing above from the base. Stick clip the first bolt, then head up the short chimney. Hint - if you want to keep the chimney moves non awkward, move your body into the chimney past the seam that runs up the right wall and layback the seam a few moves. Stem the last bit of chimney as it opens up and continue up the fun, bolt protected face with cool juggy holds and a couple bulges with more balancy thin moves. Clip the last bolt with a shoulder length sling and move left to gain a corner with a pillar making up the left side. Don't forget to lengthen the first couple pieces in the corner. Kneebar the corner and bearhug the pillar until you can mantle onto its top. Move right to a bolted anchor.
Location
About 150 feet to the right of the Bigfoot arete there is a big right facing corner with a 20 foot tall chimney in the back with a line of bolts running up the face just right of it.
Protection
9 bolts and a little gear for the top corner (I used 0.4 and .5 Camalots, #2 WC Rock and a small fixed wire. Bring a few small wires in case it is missing), a few shoulder length alpine draws, bolted anchor - 60 m rope (watch the ends). I was using a 70m, but I am pretty sure a 60 would be fine.
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