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Brennivin 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Pete Takeda, Eric Greene
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,892
Submitted By: Pete Takeda on Sep 17, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Just above the crux fighting the wicked pump.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Brennivin is a beautiful crack splitting a 30 foot roof on Creek Side crag - the buttress located on the North side of the river between the last tunnel before I-70 and The Dog House. The roof lies in the center of the crag at the river's bend. It is the most obvious feature on the buttress.

The approach pitch is 10d or 11a face climbing on solid, black-gray rock. The approach pitch had been bolted by unknown climbers prior to my ascent. The roof had one bolt located low down. The roof was aided and cleaned with nuts left in place as fixed pro. The crux - a right hand surf move to gain the crack - was protected by a tied off Lost Arrow. The roof is a giant jamming jug fest - the best first free ascent I've ever done. The belay needs replacing, as it causes some rope shredding.

Protection 

First pitch is bolt protected 5.10d. Second is protected by one bolt, one piton, and several fixed nuts. A selection of one each #0.4, 0.5, 1, 2 Camalots are helpful.


Photos of Brennivin Slideshow Add Photo
Darren heel hookin' into the crux.
Darren heel hookin' into the crux.
AKA the "Black Death". 37.5% ABV, Icelandic schnapps. Black label was designed to actually discourage people from drinking it. Brennivin literally translates to "burning wine" (Wiki).
BETA PHOTO: AKA the "Black Death". 37.5% ABV, Icelan...
Staring down the beast, wondering how much Brennivin one can handle.
Staring down the beast, wondering how much Brenniv...

Comments on Brennivin Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 5, 2014
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 17, 2002

Is it correct that P1 had a red sling in hanger 1?
By Pete Takeda
Sep 18, 2002

No that is not correct.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 18, 2002

First Free Ascent ?

_The approach pitch is 10d or 11a face climbing on solid black gray rock. The approach pitch had been bolted by unknown climbers prior to my ascent. _

(Someone else did the first pitch.)

_The roof had one bolt located low down. _

(Someone else had bolted the face leading up to the roof.)

_The roof was aided and cleaned with nuts left in place as fixed pro. The crux - a right hand surf move to gain the crack - was protected by a tied off Lost Arrow. The roof is a giant jamming jug fest - the best first free ascent I've ever done._

(Though evidence indicates that someone had been here before me and I do not know anything about their ascent.)

_The belay needs replacing, as it causes some rope shredding._

(Someone else put in the belay.)
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Sep 25, 2002

Hey! Thought I would chip something in here.... I was killing an afternoon looking for new routes in Clear Creek the other day, and I happened to notice that there is a red sling on the first hanger of a climb in this area.... However there is another bolt line just to the left that appears to lead to the same area... so who knows?? Also that whole red sling thing...do anybody really expect that everybody will stay off "their" route? just a question. Also, to the AC, if you are going to accuse someone of something please use your name...WAIT! Am I stirring the pot again?
By Pete Takeda
Sep 26, 2002

Wow! This is the first time I've ever posted anything on this site. I never knew it would generate this much reaction.

1 - No red sling on initial bolted pitch or bolt in roof.2 - We aided the route, cleaned loose junk and grit, and scrubbed the holds. There was also no chalk in the roof. 3 - There was no gear to protect the traverse into the roof crack - hence the tied off LA for gear.4 - Over the roof - at the top of the crag was an old soft iron piton. We backed the pin up with a nut as a belay.

So maybe the route was aid climbed years ago. We climbed it in 1998. Since then the only climber I know who tried it was Cameron Taugue who, despite taking several whippers on the tied off pin couldn't repeat the route. So there you have it. If anyone claims to have freed the route prior to my ascent, then power to them! I'd love to buy them a beer.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 1, 2002

Whoa guys!! Some of you need to put the brakes on, please. I received my sixth e-mail today offering to re-arrange my body parts for slandering P.T. (did you know that you had so many unbidden defenders?). I posted only one question to Pete, which he answered and which I signed, as I always do. I did not put in the approach pitches to the Brennivin roof and I had imagined that Pete's response would have been that they were both his, and stay off them till they were finished. In fact, a year ago Greg Purnell and I installed a Tyrollean across the creek and just upstream of the roof with the goal of doing the roof. The Tyro was chopped and we never got back. We had imagined approaching the roof from the right, via the grey slabs since the red stone did not look as solid. While the direct start is probably fine, its authors remain unknown.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 4, 2002

It would appear that I owe Pete an appology which I extend here, in this most public forum, and with the highest sincerity. We have been fortunate to have benefitted so much by the wonderful things you have done in the big mountains and on the crags here in the Front Range, including the gorgeous Brenvinnin roof.
By Pete Takeda
Oct 16, 2002

Wow, I haven't checked back in a while. anyway... It seems that reporting a route done several years can generate controversy. Anyway:Richard - I appreciate the apology, though none was required. Let's chat anytime. It seems that comment posting can create it's own issues/misunderstandings. Thanks to any supporters. i hope someone gets out, climbs the route, and posts their comments. PT
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 11, 2007
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Here is the skinny. Excellent route that should see more ascents!

DON'T READ UNLESS YOU WANT TO BLOW YOUR ONSIGHT!

Beta as follows:
P1: 10c, 7 bolts
P2: Follow ramp to right. Above the old ring pin can get a good #1 Camalot. Use a runner. Chossy band above with no gear (bad fall zone) until long tied off sling on bad pin. (can back this up with #2 TCU) Yard on the jugs that are chalked. Clip bolt, then another old pin. Iron cross on the rail, then crux long deadpoint/dyno 12c or d. Fixed nut, #0.5 or #1 cam, then two more fixed nuts. Optional #2 Camalot before pulling lip. This is not really a jamming kind of a crack, more of a layback with some finger locks, I remember only getting one or two hand jams.

Harder than Mighty Dog and Great Escape but on par with Sucking My Will or maybe harder. Slightly height dependent (but aren't they all!?)

With all the fixed stuff, it's practically a sport pitch. It can be done with only #1 Camalot for the start and no other gear (if you trust the relics), but would mean big air falls. Assuming the fixed nuts have not shifted.

I added the two bolt anchor (SS triplex), no rope shredding, relocated from Takeda's nut/chockstone "anchor". Either clean rap 140' to ground (will not come close to touching the wall), or lower back to the belay, requiring belayer to pull you back in. I also cleaned much of the loose timebombs off.

Gear summary: #1 Camalot, pin, bolt, pin (screamer), fixed nut, #0.5 or #1 Camalot, two fixed nuts, #2 Camalot, anchor.

Have fun.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Aug 27, 2009
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

What a special route. The movement is just amazing. Gear wise it goes #1 Camalot, yellow TCU (to back up pin), another #1 Camalot, a blue TCU above the second fixed nut, and a #2 to finish, with all that, it's practically a sport climb, but still not to be takin' lightly.

This route is well worth the time and effort as the climbing is great and once backed up, the gear is good. I don't know why this climb hasn't seen more traffic, and especially now with Shennanagans in place, it is much easier to access. Get On It.

... oh and by the way when you've sent and you are cleaning, tram all the way back down the the very first pin with the long webbing on it, clean everything, and take the BEST king swing in the canyon! We're talking at least 65-70ft over a river 100ft off the deck. SWEEEEEET.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 27, 2010

Dammit, Dave, now I have to do that swing! look what you've gone and done. Nice work on the route, gentlemen.
By mlloyd
From: denver
Sep 5, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

After talking with Pete (the first ascentionist), he thought it would be a good idea to swap one of the old rusty pitons for a bolt. His point is that when first placed, pitons are solid, and with time they become more sketchy, essentially making the route more dangerous for future acsentionists. So I went up and added one just above the crux (right next to the existing piton), the route maintains its exciting nature and "trad" feel, but now you don't have to do the dyno over a rusty, flexing pin.

If you have not been on it, this route is fantastic, maybe one of the best in the canyon.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Sep 5, 2014
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Thanks, Matt and Pete! This a great line that I never cared to repeat due to the deteriorating pin, but now I have no excuse!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 5, 2014
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Nice work, Matt. When Dave and I did that thing, we used a screamer on that sucker, and the thud sound it made when you fell on it was not very inspiring, even after popping a few stiches. The consequences if that pin blew would not have been pretty, and yeah you're right one of the best for true Clear Creek aficionados. Combine this with the 100 Proof/MB circuit for an ultimate linkup!