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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Brendan's Bitches 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: various, Fletcher 8/85
Page Views: 904
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 2, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

An adventurous trad pitch that starts as for Men in White Suits (5.9) and continues to trend right following a weakness to the top of the cliff.

Not very memorable save for the loose, dirty, poorly protected climbing.


Location 

Start as for Men in White Suits. head up and right.


Protection 

Trad gear.



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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 5, 2010

I think I remember discussion on this getting retroed, is there any true to it or is just a figment of my imagination?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 5, 2010

Yeah, Bradley gave the OK on it. I had thought to do it some time in the future, but if somebody else is up to doing it well, please go for it. It should definitely be glue-ins as it will be done a lot and regular bolts would loosen up. My retroing funds are pretty shot at the moment.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 5, 2010

I would do it but:
a) cant afford it now
b) I don't know how to bolt haha.

I was just curious about it.

By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 18, 2011

What is the matter with keeping it traditional?? Is the pro poor?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 19, 2011

So I have been told.. a mediocre trad route that would be a nice, fairly long moderate if it was cleaned up and some bolts and an anchor added.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 20, 2011

i say leave it as it is cause now it would cross Tim Kemple Sr's new route and it would just be a cluster for a route thats not great... his new route (Full Nelson) does add at least 1 helpful peace of pro (bolt) however...

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 17, 2012

How easy would it be to access the ledge where Flying Squirrel starts from this route (or Half Nelson?). I was looking over this way from the ledge (below Mister Meaner) and was thinking I might be able to wander up it in approach shoes with my backpack still on. Any ideas?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 18, 2012

It is more sketchy than it looks from the ground.

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jun 20, 2012

Since when is bitch an inappropriate or obscene word? I heard 'life's a b**ch' and every guide book has written bitches. I'm just having fun with it. I understand not wanting to offend anyone. Brendan had no bitch about the route's name.
This climb was originally a free solo we all did in 4/1980 to top rope the cliff's right side from the large tree ledge.
From the left side of the tree ledge the climb's crux finish was done by Fletcher to access the top rope we climbed. Historically, Fletcher did the entire climb's first ascent finish, bringing rope to the top. Most of our beginners climbing club and the a couple of our expert instructor friends were there. So, it became a first recorded ascent in 1985.