Brenda from Kansas 5.13b
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13b [details] |
| FA: | Ted Lanzano and Matt Samet |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Spring - Fall |
| Submitted By: | Ted Lanzano on Jul 9, 2011 |
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Brenda from Kansas ascends the center of the steep...
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Route Description Brenda from Kansas (BFK) is a new three-bolt direct start to Obscurity Risk on the west face of the Overlook. Begin on a flat, smooth hold at chest height and continue through a series of powerful moves on crimps and sidepulls to a funky mantle to gain the ledge. The hardest moves are just below the first bolt, but the difficulty is continuous throughout the steep overhang. After the ledge, join up with Obscurity Risk and climb to the chain anchors on the slab. This was named after a woman crossing the road at Boulder Falls.
Protection Bolts, pins, fixed wires, RPs, TCUs, and a #2 Mastercam.
Brenda from Kansas (5.13), the Overlook;...
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The crux cave on Brenda from Kansas (13b). Start l...
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The full Brenda, showing the lower cave and moving...
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| Comments on Brenda from Kansas |
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By Pinklebear
Jul 9, 2011
rating: 5.13b
| Some additional beta for getting with Brenda from Kansas: You can pre-clip the first bolt leaning over from a rock; use a locker on this and a short draw on the second. Because the wall's so steep, you'll skid backward a little if you fall below the first bolt, so having a crashpad down there to cush out your landing might help; we used packs and jackets.
The starting hold is the lowest, four-foot-long horizontal rail down in the pit at about chest height. Start any higher and you're cheating on Brenda...from Kansas.
On the upper part (Obscurity Risk) you can back up each angle with an RP near it, as well as a bomber yellow (No. 2) Master Cam in the horizontal from which you clip the second pin. The angles stick out quite a bit, so it's good to back them up and/or tie them off. This upper part is spooky 5.11.
BONUS tip from Brenda: Once you're on the ledge, have your belayer huck up the gear and draws for the upper bit, so you don't need to lug them with you on the V-Brenda bouldering crux. |
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