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 ADVANCED
The Overlook
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brenda from Kansas T,S 
Denver Nugget T 
Golden Child T,S 
Greenfield T 
Jersey Devil T 
Lobo T 
Louisville Slugger S 
Minnesota Fats T 
Obscurity Risk T,S 
Philadelphia Flyer T,S 
Probe, The S 
Straight Out of Compton T 
Transylvania T,S 
Yosemite Sam T 

Brenda from Kansas 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Ted Lanzano and Matt Samet
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 1,013
Submitted By: Ted Lanzano on Jul 9, 2011

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The crux cave on Brenda from Kansas (13b). Start l...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Route Description 

Brenda from Kansas (BFK) is a new three-bolt direct start to Obscurity Risk on the west face of the Overlook. Begin on a flat, smooth hold at chest height and continue through a series of powerful moves on crimps and sidepulls to a funky mantle to gain the ledge. The hardest moves are just below the first bolt, but the difficulty is continuous throughout the steep overhang. After the ledge, join up with Obscurity Risk and climb to the chain anchors on the slab. This was named after a woman crossing the road at Boulder Falls.


Protection 

Bolts, pins, fixed wires, RPs, TCUs, and a #2 Mastercam.



Photos of Brenda from Kansas Slideshow Add Photo
Brenda from Kansas ascends the center of the steep overhang and continues past the ledge.
Brenda from Kansas ascends the center of the steep...
Brenda from Kansas (5.13), the Overlook; the route climbs the rib feature at center to finish on Obscurity Risk, the fin above.
Brenda from Kansas (5.13), the Overlook;...
The full Brenda, showing the lower cave and moving into the top half of Obscurity Risk, which is heads-up trad 5.11-ish.
The full Brenda, showing the lower cave and moving...
Comments on Brenda from Kansas Add Comment
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By Pinklebear
Jul 9, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Some additional beta for getting with Brenda from Kansas: You can pre-clip the first bolt leaning over from a rock; use a locker on this and a short draw on the second. Because the wall's so steep, you'll skid backward a little if you fall below the first bolt, so having a crashpad down there to cush out your landing might help; we used packs and jackets.

The starting hold is the lowest, four-foot-long horizontal rail down in the pit at about chest height. Start any higher and you're cheating on Brenda...from Kansas.

On the upper part (Obscurity Risk) you can back up each angle with an RP near it, as well as a bomber yellow (No. 2) Master Cam in the horizontal from which you clip the second pin. The angles stick out quite a bit, so it's good to back them up and/or tie them off. This upper part is spooky 5.11.

BONUS tip from Brenda: Once you're on the ledge, have your belayer huck up the gear and draws for the upper bit, so you don't need to lug them with you on the V-Brenda bouldering crux.

By j wharton
Apr 13, 2014

If you start sitting way down and left, there is a cool, gaston boulder problem to link into the original start of BFK. (Bring a pad to protect this part.) Not perfect rock, but really cool athletic movement. Probably adds a letter/or V-grade to the route. One of my favorite "mini" routes in B-Canyon. With a lot of pads and fresh knees, it would be pretty reasonable to just boulder this route out.