This crag offers up some of the most varied climbing. Many crags offer either pockets or crimps, but this one has them both. So this place gives you the cool opportunity to practice some different styles of climbing. Also, the range of difficulty extends from 3 to 9+. There are a high density of 5s and 9s here, though there are only a total of 23 routes. The cliff is about 45 feet tall, well-protected, and steep.
There's also a toilet, a nice even grassy lawn and a picnic bench where kids can play. The approach is stroller-friendly.
From Erlangen, head east on the A3 to the A9 north towards Berlin. Take Exit 46 (Plech) and head towards Neuhaus. After reaching Neuhaus, continue driving towards Königstein. When you reach Königstein, keep driving through the town on the main road which kind of trends left. At the end of the town there's a sign headed towards Sulzbach with Holnstein. Head that way and on the left after about 300m or so is a green sign for Breitenstein. Turn left and head uphill until you see a parking lot on the left with a sign of the hiking trails around Koenigstein. Park here and walk through the little town of Breitenstein. After the last house, where the pavement ends continue about 40m and go right to the crag.
Weather station 17.5 miles from here
12 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Breitenstein
Nicht geschenkt 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Europe
: ... : Breitenstein
The name means "Not a Gimme", and that's really true. This is a tricky 5.9/10a from start to pretty much finish. Climb up to the first bolt through small crimps and hidden holds and balance your way up through the next two. To get to the skinny sling, I went right a bit and then up to it. The anchor is around to the right....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of the right side of Breitenstein
BETA PHOTO: Topo of the easiest face