Breashear's Finger Crack question

Does anyone have any good suggestions for TRing the Breshears crack? (The variation first pitch of Wunsch's Diheral) without having to lead it?

Is there good gear to be had all the way at the top of the pitch (on the ledge)? If so, one could lead the original first pitch, walk over on the ledge to the top of BFC and set an anchor.

Then to get off, one could just walk back over the ledge to the rap anchor, and clean the lead gear on rappel.

Of course, if I did this, I'd let anyone who was planning on leading Wunsch's lead through. But this still leaves the problem that you'd be cluttering up the original start pitch with your gear until you finished and rapped to clean it.

Any better ideas (aside from just manning up and leading BFC, which I might just do if there's no quicker/easier solution).

GO

It's been a while since I've been up there but Yes, I believe that plan works.

You might not find the lead that bad, Gabe. What I remember is the hardest moves were in the first 15' or so, right off the ground. I french freed that section when I followed it. The rest was not nearly as desperate.

Gabe, based on other stuff you have climbed i think you could lead it. that being said, if you want to tr it, you could lead the original first pitch and set up an anchor in the corner. use a directional near the top of the BFC (you can't really place much of an anchor at the top of it).

i say try to lead it first though - eye up the gear from the ground and go for it. i think you could end up pretty happy you did so.

Ben Walburn wrote:It's been a while since I've been up there but Yes, I believe that plan works.

+1

Climb up the corner placing a small cam to back up the pin at 20 feet. Foot traverse left with hands at the level with the second pod and place a cam or two and lower off. This will let you set up an easy TR on the start. It is also the best way to start Wunsch's unless you like greasy smears for breakfast, as you can easily continue up enjoying the rest of Breshears.

Anyways once you have had your TR fun it is pretty easy to reverse the moves and down climb the start of the corner. Remember to place a #3 in the right crack 10 feet up as down climbing that last little section back to the ledge is the hardest moves.

Best to enjoy in the shade this time of year.

Climb up the corner placing a small cam to back up the pin at 20 feet. Foot traverse left with hands at the level with the second pod and place a cam or two and lower off. This will let you set up an easy TR on the start. It is also the best way to start Wunsch's unless you like greasy smears for breakfast, as you can easily continue up enjoying the rest of Breshears.

Anyways once you have had your TR fun it is pretty easy to reverse the moves and down climb the start of the corner. Remember to place a #3 in the right crack 10 feet up as down climbing that last little section back to the ledge is the hardest moves.

Best to enjoy in the shade this time of year.

slim wrote:Gabe, based on other stuff you have climbed i think you could lead it. that being said, if you want to tr it, you could lead the original first pitch and set up an anchor in the corner. use a directional near the top of the BFC (you can't really place much of an anchor at the top of it). i say try to lead it first though - eye up the gear from the ground and go for it. i think you could end up pretty happy you did so.

Slim's spot on in my book! Do it like the rest of us did and just go up there and do the best job you can. You can't fail any worse than I did on my first shot at it back in the 80's. Ya know what I mean?

i like kevin's idea as a backup though - good quick way to get a TR on the hard part. but, i still think he should give it a shot.

slim wrote:i like kevin's idea as a backup though - good quick way to get a TR on the hard part. but, i still think he should give it a shot.

Trouble is, I'm likely to go with someone for whom doing Center Route will be a good challenge. When we get done, if we have daylight and energy, I'd like to get a run on BFC with as little hangdogging and mucking about as possible, since I doubt my partner will even want to try it.

If I lead it, even if I flash it (unlikely), I'll still have to go up it again to clean all the gear. If I set it up as a TR, all I have to do is climb the wide crack, traverse over to clean directionals, and rap.

Since all of this will likely be of no interest for my partner, I want to do whatever's most expedient.

GO

My way is an easy 30 foot TR, but you could climb and clean on lower with a bit of patience. The anchor at the top of P1 is fixed, so thread the anchor then reverse the top out on tension and clean your last two pieces(just make sure you are clipped back into the lead line so if you blow it you don't penji into the corner). Once you clean the first couple pieces you should be able to lower normally. You could also lead the start of Breshear's then traverse right at any point below the top to make cleaning on lower or rappell easy.

You only get one chance for an onsight...if you are comfortable on .11+ you should go for it.

If anyone knows, it's Olaf. Good advice from Olaf.

Olaf, you might not remember me but we bouldered side by side on many days at Morison. We shared an aquaintance or two including Roger P. You showed me a really, really high boulder problem at Morison one sunny afternoon. Glad to be alive after that!

After getting a chance to climb the center route, i bet your partner will be psyched to give you a belay. the crux is low and brief, probably won't take you very long to do it. if your partner still has some energy left, they could probably TR the regular start. hope i'm not applying too much pressure :)

Go for it!! sew it up and punch it!! = )